Trans Eurasia travel

Village of Kosh

20km from Ashtarak a road leads right to the village of Kosh. Behind the village is a cemetery dominated by a hill on which are the remains of a small 13th-century castle built on an earlier foundation. It is rectangular in shape with round corner towers. In the cemetery itself are the 13th-century Church of St Gregory complete with sundial, and the 19th-century Church of St George. More interesting than either, however, is the 7th-century Church of St Stephen. It is reached by taking the road out of Kosh towards Sasunik (turn right in the village by a blue sign which contains information about the water and sewage system; the main road bears left and if you reach the prison you have missed the turning). Follow it for a short distance up the hill until the church is seen in a gorge to the right. A track leads over to the church and the short walk from the road is pleasant and interesting, passing old khachkars and caves apparently formerly used by the monks. The well-preserved church itself is perched on a ledge so narrow in the side of the gorge that the shape of the roof had to be adjusted to avoid an overhanging rock. One of the church's corners is supported by a pile of rocks, more dramatic before the recent path around the church was laid but still visible. Inside can be discerned the remains of frescoes.


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