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When dusk descends on Yerevan the smoke begins to rise on Paronyan Poghots (aka ‘Barbecue St’). The street is more like a highway and all along its 2km length you’ll spot khoravats restaurants in every shape and form, including simple courtyard eateries run by families and large, sophisticated places, especially on Paronyan Poghots, where huge terraces step down into the Hrazdan Gorge. The cheaper ones, similar to the old days when these house restaurants were rare examples of tolerated private enterprise, are on the upper stretch near in the direction of Marshall Baghramian Poghota. Some have private dining rooms, other have live music and a gregarious atmosphere. If one doesn’t suit your mood, just move to the next. A dinner of tasty grilled pork, lamb and beef wrapped in lavash with salad and onions costs AMD1600 to AMD2000 at the smaller places. Kebab is around AMD600. Many do grilled chicken (AMD1500) as well. Some have home specialities – it helps to go with someone who can recommend a favourite. Clustered around the corner of Paronyan Poghots and Dzorap (‘gorge bank’) Poghots are several of the modern variety. Caesar’s Palace (Map pp148–9 ) and Urartu (Map pp148–9 ) are two of the best and cost a little more (around AMD2300 to AMD5000 per person, not including too many drinks) – if you like a restaurant with a view, it’s hard to beat Urartu’s perch over the gorge.

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