Trans Eurasia travel

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Gahar LakeDominated by a huge, satanic cement factory, Dorud is useful as a launching point for hiking to beautiful, mountain-ringed Lake Gahar, famed for its succulent qizil aria fish. The trailhead is Haft Cheshmeh, a lonely refuge hut, car park and drinking-water spring 23km from Dorud. In midsummer guides and ponies are usually available here. The trek skirts 4070m Mt Oshturan taking around four hours out less back. Bring vour own food and tent. Even if von don't hike, great views justify the car journey as far as Darb-e-Astaneh, a mud-house village 18km from Dorud.

Esfahan-bound buses pick up passengers around midnight from Taavoni offices on Beheshti Blvd. Incoming trains are met at the station by savaris for both Khorramabad and Borujerd.