Trans Eurasia travel

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Alavian Dome

(Gonbad-e Alaviyan; Shahdad Lane; 8am-7pm) The site is a XII century Seljuk tomb (the original dome has disappeared, replaced by a modern roof). The name is now a misnomer, as the 12th-century green dome, immortalised in a Khaqani reference, has long since been removed. The domeless brick tower remains famous for the whirling floral stucco added in the Ilkhanid era; this ornamentation enraptured Robert Byron in 'Road to Oxiana'. It is thought this was the mausoleum for members of the Alaviyan family, who controlled Hamadan for two centuries, but when it was built exactly is unclear.

To get to the tomb, follow Baba Taher Avenue from Khomeini Square to Imamzadeh Abdollah Square, and turn right onto Alaviyan Boulevard. A useful landmark is the golden dome of the unfinished Imamzadeh-ye Abdollah. The tomb is located in the courtyard of a school (the entrance door is in a small street to the right of the boulevard). In the crypt (narrow steps down from the interior at the back) is the plain-blue tiled Alaviyan family tomb covered with votive Islamic embroidery.

 





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