|Malik Azhdar Mosque is quite old and modest, it is off the tourist track a bit- one have to wander around a residential neighborhood to find it. Its still in use but has not been restored and so it shows its age more than some of the others|
West of the Orient Star is the 14th century Malik Azhdar Khanagha, former home to wandering Sufic dervishes. The working mosque beneath its large brick dome (1904) served briefly as the city's Jummi Mosque for Friday prayers, until Soviet atheism made it a museum. A more popular secular role as a chaikhana was the fate of the Abdushukur Ogolliq Mosque and Madrassah (1914), previously called the Khodja Mirkhamid and now reopened as a neighbourhood mosque, south along Shakhrisabz's main street. Nearby a 15th century bathhouse is once again open for business, to prolong over 500 years of public service. The Koba madrassah opposite is of equal age, though later use as a caravanserai determined its new life as series of workshops rather than seminary.
A five-minute walk east of the madrassah brings you to Shakhrisabz's current Jami Mosque (1915). Back on main street, approach the Chorsu (four ways) domed bazaar, a classic Silk Road structure first built on the trade crossroads of the 15th century. Chorsu still serves its original purpose. The external dome covers an octagonal hall, which is surrounded by four smaller domes, each with its own portal. The bustling stalls inside spill out onto the square outside and there are some curious objects on sale: the handmade wooden cribs, for example, are constructed with a hole in the base to facilitate the easy cleaning of baby in the absence of a nappy!
Just across the road is the charming Kullolik Chaikhana, where white-bearded men play backgammon and chess under swinging birdcages, while their wives sell jewellery outside in an impromptu bazaar.