Well, it was interesting to see a historical hammam, but the actual procedure... meh. The program is the typical Turkish style – warming up, peeling, soap massage (done on a stone platform! 😟), then rinsed off with cool water, honey with ginger applied to your back, rest, and another rinse. And then tea.

Not sure anyone’s ever heard of sanitary standards there, but they did give us clean towels and disposable slippers.

The whole thing lasted 1 hour and cost 425,000 soums.

As my husband put it – that was the one waste of money on our trip.

While planning my trip to Uzbekistan, I stumbled upon an intriguing article online titled "Feel Like the Emir's Wife:..." published on some site. The captivating description of the medieval women’s bathhouse, Hammom Kunjak, immediately earned it a spot on our Bukhara itinerary. However, the article didn’t provide contact details, so I had to scour other sources. Eventually, I believed I had found the information I needed.

Hammom Kunjak, built during the Sheibanid dynasty (1507–1598), was originally designed for the emir’s wives and concubines. Visits to this bathhouse are strictly by appointment.

When we arrived in Bukhara, I called the number I had found, confirmed that it was the bathhouse, and made a reservation. They sent me a message with detailed instructions and even a video on how to find them. To my surprise, however, the video revealed that I had accidentally booked a session at the modern Hammom Shahriston instead of the historical Kunjak. Located on the same street as the medieval men’s bathhouse Bozori Kord, Shahriston turned out to be an entirely different experience.

We didn’t let this mix-up derail our plans. That same day, we walked to Hammom Kunjak and made an official reservation.

• Address: Bukhara, Muhammad Iqbal Street
• Phone: +998 97 234-32-33
• Price: 400,000 UZS (~3077 RUB)
• Duration: 1 hour
• Women only

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The staff at Kunjak even gave us a brief tour of the premises, but the Spartan conditions made us pause. The facilities were, to put it mildly, rustic, and even the restroom was located outside. After some deliberation the next morning, we decided to forgo medieval charm in favor of modern convenience.

By evening, we were at the doors of Hammom Shahriston, just minutes before our scheduled session. This modern bathhouse is part of the Shahriston Hotel but has a separate entrance.

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• Address: Bukhara, Hakikat Street, 53 (entrance on the side of the hotel)
• Phone: +998 93 477-11-33
• Price: 400,000 UZS
• Duration: 1 hour (additional time allowed in the lounge for tea and relaxation)
• Facilities: Mixed-gender access, choice of male or female masseuse

Behind the hammam doors, we discovered a charming courtyard.

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The facilities were well-equipped: guests are provided with towels, sheets, and slippers, although bringing your own flip-flops and shampoo is recommended. Lockers for personal belongings are secure and key-operated.

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The Shahriston Experience

After changing into sheets, we passed through the lounge area to the bathhouse. This relaxing space, where tea is served, sometimes still has guests from previous sessions.

In the bathing area, we were warmly greeted by two bath attendants. Interestingly, one of them used to work at the medieval baths we had opted against! What followed was a quintessential Bukhara bathhouse experience: