Trans Eurasia travel

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Historically Kurdamir is a place that has demoralized even the toughest of invading armies. In 1795 it was at Kurdamir that Russian General Zubov learnt of the impending Persian invasion and sensibly decided to run away. Two thousand years before, the local Albanian warriors had proved no match for the disciplined, well-armed Romans. However, the legions were tricked into following a local 'guide' who led them not to Shamakha as they'd hoped but into the Kurdamir marshes where they quickly became lost and disoriented amid the bogs, mosquitoes and gurza snakes. Kurdamir is still infamous for its night-time plagues of mosquitoes and its summer heat, though it's drier and less marshy than in previous centuries.

The town centre, across the railway tracks from the main highway, has a neatly whitewashed, ghostly atmosphere. For a planned Soviet town ensemble the design is not unpleasant but like all Kurdamir's historical visitors, you'll probably be keen to hurry on.