If you compare Samarkand and Bukhara, Bukhara really touched my heart. We probably won’t return to Samarkand. Historical sites are of course very interesting — we spent all evenings watching films about Timur, and took guided tours in both Samarkand and Bukhara. We stayed near Registan, and also at Hilton Samarkand Regency, just for variety.

We spent quite a lot of money — about $1,200 for two people for a week (that included hotel costs as well). Overall, we are satisfied with the trip, but it’s not the kind of place where you immediately start looking for tickets to come back.

In short – here are some notes that might help those planning their first trip.

We flew there with Air Astana and back with Uzbekistan Airways. The flight took about two hours, and they served a light snack. Customs and border control in Tashkent were straightforward.

We picked up local SIM cards right at the airport for $4. Yandex Taxi works fine, but you’ll need to walk past the crowd of pushy taxi drivers at the entrance—just keep a straight face and power through.

Money – Our bank cards worked everywhere, both in stores and ATMs.

We booked hotels in all the cities through Booking.com.

Prices for food and accommodation in Tashkent are comparable to those in Astana—Uzbekistan is no longer cheap. They say rising tourism is to blame. It made me think—tourism is a double-edged sword, especially for those who aren’t directly involved in it.

We spent the whole day exploring the city on foot. The biggest highlight? Going up the Tashkent TV Tower.

On the way back, we stopped by Chorsu Bazaar. Downstairs was calm—we chatted with the vendors and bought spices. But upstairs, where the dried fruits are, was a nightmare!

A whole crowd was waiting by the stairs—six people latched onto us immediately, grabbing our hands and clothes, shoving nuts and raisins in our faces while shouting over each other. We barely managed to escape and literally ran out of there. I wouldn’t recommend that “attraction” to anyone.

Overall, the people were incredibly kind, friendly, and open everywhere we went. Even the police—an officer in Samarkand gave our daughter a carnation flower as a gift.

We traveled between Tashkent, Samarkand, and Bukhara on the high-speed Afrosiyob train—about two hours between each city. We bought our tickets online a month in advance.

I won’t bore you with details about the landmarks—just wow.

Samarkand greeted us with heavy rain and wind, so we had to hire a guide with a car on the spot. He stayed with us until late and even drove us to Samarkand City in the evening.

A fun dinner story – We ate at the halal Afrosiyob restaurant near the ancient settlement. Since it was my birthday, they discreetly served the wine we brought—poured into a teapot. Halal, but with a twist!

Bukhara – If you don’t hire a guide, get a tuk-tuk at the start. For 100,000 som (~4,000 KZT), the driver will take you around all the main sights with plenty of jokes along the way. He won’t provide much in-depth information, but you’ll get the lay of the land and can explore on foot afterward without getting lost.

Shopping – It’s better to buy robes, plates, and other souvenirs on the streets around Chorsu. For example, we bargained a robe for our daughter down to 200,000 som from 250,000 in Bukhara, but the same robes at Chorsu were hanging for 100,000.

Plov (pilaf) – Our daughter liked the Tashkent version best, while I preferred the Samarkand style—Bukhara’s was similar to Samarkand’s. We tried shashlik in several places, but honestly? It’s better in Shymkent.

The weather was warm—we were even walking around in t-shirts in Bukhara.

Overall, it was a good trip—but a one-time thing. Unlike Georgia, we don’t feel the urge to go back.