First things first—if you’re a U.S. citizen, make sure to apply for your visa well in advance. I submitted my application almost three weeks before my trip, and it took the full three weeks to get my visa. You can apply up to 90 days ahead, so don’t leave it until the last minute!

I booked my train tickets 59 days in advance, especially for the Bukhara to Tashkent route, which sells out fast. The trains are super comfortable and efficient, though they do have a tendency to leave 10-20 minutes later than scheduled. For other transport needs, I relied on Yandex, which was incredibly affordable and convenient. I flew into Tashkent from Bishkek and out to Batumi with Uzbekistan Airways, and I was quite pleased with the service, flights, and prices.

Accommodation Highlights

• Tashkent: I stayed at Art Plaza. The first room was lovely, but my second stay was less impressive in terms of cleanliness. The breakfast was decent, though!
• Samarkand: My favorite was Hotel Jasmina—the location is unbeatable, the rooms are comfortable, and the breakfast is amazing. Plus, I had a stunning view of Registan Square right from my window!
• Bukhara: I opted for Everland, which had new and clean rooms. However, the reception was right outside the doors of the first-floor rooms, which might be a problem for light sleepers. It was fine for me, but I would recommend booking early to snag better options.

Food

While the food in Uzbekistan is better than what I experienced in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, it’s not the primary reason to visit. In Samarkand, I enjoyed meals at Shokhrukh Nur, Boulevard, and Dostana. For coffee, head to the gelato kiosk near Registan Square. In Bukhara, Zaytoon offers delicious Lebanese food, while Chalet was decent but nothing to write home about. Magic Carpet has the best coffee, and I found Ayvon to be average with subpar service despite a 20% service fee.

Must-See Sights and Activities

Samarkand was my favorite city. The monuments are more spread out, allowing for genuine interactions with locals. I visited Registan Square at 8 AM one morning and had the place almost to myself—just one other family was there! The parks surrounding the square are perfect for relaxing and meeting local families. Shah-i-Zinda was serene during sunset and early morning visits. I also took a tips-based walking tour with Farrazah on GuruWalks, which was excellent. Don’t miss the 1+1 Oyoq Hammomi Markazi for a fantastic massage after all the sightseeing—just remember to book ahead!

Shopping at the local market was a treat; prices were fair, and the quality was impressive.

Bukhara is stunning but can be quite crowded due to the concentration of sites. I found that 6 PM was the best time to explore, as the light was beautiful, and the crowds thinned out. The Bolo Hauz mosque looks magical reflected in the water about 40 minutes after sunrise. I also enjoyed a tips-based guru walk here and found a local guide who was fantastic. Be sure to check out Art Feruz in the dome near the Ikat gallery—his artwork is breathtaking, and I’m so glad I bought a piece, despite the hassle of carrying it around.

Border Crossing to Tajikistan

I left Samarkand late one afternoon to cross into Tajikistan. The Yandex ride to the border was about $11, but be prepared for a long wait at passport control—only one person was working when I left Uzbekistan. On the Tajik side, I shared a taxi to Panjakent for 30,000 Uzbek SOM. I stayed at the SUGD Hotel, where the owner was incredibly hospitable, and the rooms were basic yet clean. He arranged a friendly driver for a trip to the stunning Seven Lakes area of the Fann Mountains, which was a highlight of my trip.