I’ve heard that the road to Song Kul is unpaved. When you mentioned it opened on May 26, does that mean it was officially drivable on that day? Are there specific times of the year when access is restricted due to road conditions?

In places like Enilchek and Kel-Suu, though, nighttime temperatures hovered around zero degrees. Overall, the weather was pleasant, but you’ll definitely want warm clothes for trekking and overnight stays. My packing list included felt boots, fleece layers, thermal underwear, a down jacket with a membrane shell, and insulated pants — the standard gear for these kinds of places.

I can’t recall the exact numbers, but the car consumed a lot of fuel. For the whole trip, it cost our group around $400 in total for 12 days of very active driving.

Accommodations were cheap, and you can even find more budget-friendly options if you look. That said, we camped in tents every night, so we didn’t really spend anything on lodging.

As for guides and horses — we didn’t use any. For transport, though, we rented a UAZ “Bukhanka” in Karakol to get to Altyn-Arashan Gorge (we skipped Karakol Gorge). In Altyn-Arashan, you’ll definitely need the service of a driver with a properly prepared vehicle.

The road there is a nightmare — a real “off-road paradise.” I was honestly relieved that I didn’t attempt it with my own car. It’s all boulders, riverbeds, and steep climbs in abundance. That service (round trip) cost us about $200.

The roads were decent overall, though you should prepare for the fact that almost half the roads are dirt tracks. Unfortunately, our car didn’t have a cabin filter, so all the dust made its way inside, which made the driving pretty tough.

The most exhausting part was the route around Son-Kul Lake. The terrain there is marshy, filled with river crossings. A couple of times, I seriously thought I’d get stuck. The roads are bumpy, winding, and hilly — even if you wanted to, you wouldn’t be able to go faster than 20 km/h. That circular drive was much more tiring than I expected.

Other than that, the roads are generally manageable. To get to Kel-Suu, there’s a railway bridge you cross, and then you can follow the signs straight to the yurt camp.

What stood out the most? The southern side of Issyk-Kul and the trip to Kel-Suu Lake via Enilchek — absolutely breathtaking places. The road from Issyk-Kul to Kel-Suu easily made it into my top list of the most beautiful drives I’ve ever taken (and I’ve seen plenty!).

What didn’t impress me? Ala-Archa Gorge — too many people, and it doesn’t really stand out compared to the other places. Kel-Tor Lake was also a letdown in May. It had just started thawing, and the water was murky.

Since you’ll also be traveling in May, keep in mind that Ala-Kul will almost certainly be inaccessible for hiking. As for the road to Enilchek, you might want to check in advance — they don’t clear it regularly. Everything else should be passable, though.

By the way, you don’t necessarily need a 4Runner for this kind of trip — a simpler SUV will do just fine.

All I can say is this: Kyrgyzstan will win your heart. Wishing you an amazing journey!

Just to confirm: from Son-Kul all the way to the Too-Ashuu Pass, it’s dirt roads the whole way?

Yes, it’s dirt roads all the way to Suusamyr.

I’d rather not face any surprises with a RAV4 and its summer tires on a snowy Son-Kul.

Keep in mind: A/T tires are also considered summer tires, just optimized for rough and gravel roads. They’re not winter tires. That said, the 4Runner will definitely be more comfortable and reliable for this route.

However, I’d strongly advise against trying to push through Karakol Gorge with it. Even in a 4Runner, that’s asking for trouble.

Alright, I’m crossing the Tosor Pass off the list. I’ll stick to the same route as shown in the map — better to take the passable road.

About Karakol Gorge — yes, the plan is to reach the start of the trek to Ala-Kul, specifically the alpine camp coordinates 42.315667, 78.470962. But based on what you’ve mentioned regarding the road’s condition, I see we likely won’t get there by car. We’ll leave the vehicle at the guesthouse and proceed from there.

Five hours sounds manageable for the trek. As for the overnight stay — we’ll decide based on timing, but honestly, it’d be great to spend the night up there by the lake. It’ll help recharge after the long hike and aid with acclimatization too.

Just to confirm: from Son-Kul all the way to the Too-Ashuu Pass, it’s dirt roads the whole way?

Update: I’ve just spoken to the rental company, and they offered a Toyota 4Runner for a slight additional fee. It’s equipped with A/T tires and has a clearance of 23 cm. I’m leaning toward taking it.

Given the long stretches of gravel roads in the second part of the journey, it feels like the safer option. Plus, I’d rather not face any surprises with a RAV4 and its summer tires on a snowy Son-Kul.

Now, a couple of follow-ups:

1. If I take the 4Runner, do you think I’ll be able to drive all the way to the Karakol alpine camp?
2. Regarding fuel stations: the 4Runner’s fuel consumption is significantly higher. How frequent are gas stations along the route? I assume most places only accept cash, correct?
3. Lastly, what’s the situation with speed cameras? Are there many on this route?