They suggested the following solution: they handle all permits, including the GBAO one, and send them to me electronically. For the border crossing, they submit the documents directly to the border guards. I’d need to print 10–11 copies of the GBAO permit and hand one over at each checkpoint. The cost for two people is $80 (for the GBAO permit and border crossing).

Has anyone heard of this method for entering GBAO?

You can arrange it remotely through intermediaries. I handled mine via Omurbek (can’t recall his last name). Two weeks prior, I sent him scanned copies of our passports, and once in Dushanbe, I picked up the permits. Naturally, I requested scans of the permits before payment to confirm there were no errors. Even so, there was a mistake—one permit listed May instead of June. Here’s Omurbek’s Telegram contact: +992 90 111 0154.

How long did it take to traverse?

We weren’t in a rush—it took us 10 days from entry into Tajikistan to exit. You can customize the schedule depending on your interests and availability. Some people complete the Pamir Highway in just two days, but honestly, what’s the point?

What’s the current state of the road?

Up to Darvaz, the road has fresh asphalt and is excellent. Beyond that, there’s construction until Khorog, with no asphalt. From Khorog along the southern Pamir route, it’s a mix of dirt roads and heavily damaged asphalt, all the way to Kyrgyzstan. Between the Tajik and Kyrgyz borders (Kyzyl-Art), it’s practically a tank testing ground. Once you cross into Kyrgyzstan, the roads transition from decent dirt tracks to proper asphalt nearing Osh.
I filmed the entire route using Yandex.Mirrors, so feel free to check it out.

How is the fuel availability along the route? Should we bring extra canisters?

Fuel is available, so canisters aren’t mandatory. Gas might not be an option for you, but it’s the cheapest. Gasoline is readily available at proper stations up to Khorog; beyond that, most villages have makeshift stations where they measure fuel with buckets instead of pumps. It’s advisable to always maintain a reserve for 200–300 km.

Is there anything else to keep in mind when deciding whether or not to drive the highway?

I wouldn’t recommend attempting it with just one vehicle. Three reasons:

1. If your car breaks down, help can take a long time to arrive.
2. Attractions like the geysers along the high road from Bulunkul to Alichur involve crossing two rivers, where there’s a real chance of getting stuck. That area has zero traffic, so it’s not ideal for a solo vehicle.
3. Landslides periodically block the road, and while you might clear them, there’s always a risk of getting stuck. A second car can pull you out.

If you do it solo, the journey shifts from being predictably adventurous to potentially perilous, and perhaps less enjoyable overall. But that’s just my take.

all-terrain tires

I specifically equipped my car with brand-new BF Goodrich A/T tires for this trip, confident they’d be durable—and they were. However, we did see plenty of cars with regular tires making it through, though I’d recommend carrying at least two spares. A high-clearance vehicle with four-wheel drive is essential.

And what about customs?

Don’t worry. It’s the Uzbek side that thoroughly inspects vehicles, not the Kyrgyz or Tajik authorities, particularly at the mentioned checkpoints. Out of four crossings, we were only asked once to remove items from the trunk for visibility.
There was a scanner at the Kazakhstan–Kyrgyzstan border in Kordai, but it’s simple: you drive your car into an X-ray chamber, step out, and let the machine do its job.

I hadn’t considered this option before—I had assumed the border could only be crossed by car at Kyzyl-Art. That route interests me more, but what about obtaining the GBAO permit?

If it’s not too much trouble, could you also provide updated details about the Pamir Highway itself?

• How long did it take to traverse?
• What’s the current state of the road?
• How is the fuel availability along the route? Should we bring extra canisters?
• Is there anything else to keep in mind when deciding whether or not to drive the highway?

For reference, the vehicle is an off-road SUV with all-terrain tires, running on gasoline. We’ll be traveling alone, without backup.

I’m also quite concerned about customs inspections. Previously, we’ve only driven internationally to Mongolia, which was straightforward, albeit not particularly quick. There, we didn’t have to unload the car at all, let alone put everything through scanners. But I’ve read horror stories about this region, where they supposedly make you strip down the car, even removing door panels and interior linings.

There was no one else at the border—it’s almost unused. In fact, there were no customs officers on the Tajik side at all, and we had to wait for someone to come from Isfara. The process was extremely slow and, unfortunately, required some "small tip."

On the return trip, we exited through the Pamir Highway on June 21. Everything went smoothly there. The Tajik side let us leave without issues, and the Kyrgyz side readmitted us based on the lists.

We arranged the lists through Destination Pamir Travel Company. A certain Erali Torogeldiev handled it for $25 per person for both directions. However, he made a mistake and forgot to include one person on the return list. The Kyrgyz side was ready to leave them stranded between borders—it would’ve happened if the issue hadn’t been resolved in time by tipping again.

One important note: the border is open only to citizens and vehicles of third countries. Kyrgyz and Tajik nationals are not allowed to cross.

Could someone provide information on the following: Is it possible to cross the border from Kyrgyzstan into Tajikistan? I’ve been searching for details, but most travelers seem to go the other way—from Tajikistan to Kyrgyzstan.
Yes, I am aware that a permit for GBAO is required. Can it be obtained in Kyrgyzstan or remotely? Are there any additional nuances to consider?

We’re planning a trip to the region by car at the end of August. I’d love to drive the Pamir Highway, but I’ve been discouraged by stories about the Kazakhstan–Uzbekistan border, where it’s said you could lose almost an entire day. That’s why I’m considering a route through Kyrgyzstan instead.

I’d greatly appreciate any up-to-date information about driving the Pamir Highway this year!

We completed the Pamir Highway from May 30 to June 4.
At the Kyzyl-Art Pass border crossing, there were no queues at all!
However, obtaining a permit to enter Kyrgyzstan is absolutely mandatory, and it must be done well in advance.
Ahead of us were some Polish travelers—they ended up camping in tents for two days at the Kyrgyz border while waiting for their permits to be issued.

Also, keep in mind that just before entering Kyrgyzstan, in the lowlands, the internet connection is very poor. Either it doesn’t work at all or it’s extremely weak.

I emailed the Department of Tourism but didn’t receive a reply. When I called their helpline, I was informed that permits are now exclusively handled by travel agencies. They sent me WhatsApp contact details for the following agencies:

• CBT Osh: Aziret Zhusubaly uulu (+996 556 007 030)
• +996 707 760 657
• +996 555 077 621
• Destination Osh: Abdulkadyr Aliev (+996 776 770 090)

Each agency has different prices and payment methods. I used the second one, paying $20 through Tinkoff because they responded the quickest.

My travel companion from France used the first agency, paying $15 via Visa ссылка удалена The third agency also charged $20 (payment details unclear), while the fourth offered $15 with Tinkoff payment as an option.

Permits are typically issued the same day and sent to the border. They specify a timeframe for crossing, which can span multiple days.

On April 27, both my companion and I crossed without issues.

P.S. I also booked a taxi from the pass to Osh through the second agency.

I used a local contact I found in the Telegram group Relocation to Tajikistan ( ссылка удалена ) and paid 500 somoni for providing address for registration.

Altogether, registration and the GBAO permit for my family cost 1,500 somoni (about 40$ per person). It might have been possible to find a cheaper option, but this arrangement worked for us.