On the southern slope of Mount Arteni, at an altitude of 1,450 meters, lies the village of Dashtadem—a name that translates from Armenian as “facing the field.” It lends its name to the fortress that now dominates this corner of Shirak. In earlier sources, the structure is often referred to as the Fortress of the Kamsarakans, a noble Armenian dynasty that traces its lineage back to the 4th century. The current fortress was erected in the 7th century by the Kamsarakans, who ruled over Shirak, incorporating the foundations of a much older Urartian stronghold. Evidence of Bronze Age habitation has also been uncovered here. The fortress is mentioned in chronicles describing the first Arab incursions into Armenia.
In a country where fortresses are relatively rare, Dashtadem stands out—despite its present-day appearance, weathered and worn.
The complex comprises a central citadel, surrounding fortification walls, a church, and remains of residential buildings. The oldest part is the inner citadel. In 1174, Sultan ibn Mahmud ibn Shavur—emir of Ani and a member of the Kurdish Shaddadid dynasty—added polygonal and semicircular towers to the structure. An Arabic inscription on the southern tower commemorates this addition. That same year marked the end of the Shaddadid rule: the Georgian army defeated the dynasty and annexed Ani and its surrounding lands.
During the 12th and 13th centuries, under the Zakarid dynasty, an inner defensive wall was constructed. At the heart of the courtyard stands the Church of Saint Sarkis, patron of lovers, built of red tufa and also dating to the Zakarid era.
The fortress retained strategic value well into the 18th and 19th centuries. In 1812, the Sardar of Yerevan, Hussein Quli Khan, surrounded the site with a massive eight-meter-thick polygonal wall featuring eight corner towers. The fortress’s current appearance largely stems from this early 19th-century reconstruction under the Qajar khans, although remnants of the 12th-century structure survive in the form of a few foundation stones.
Perched at 1,440 meters above sea level, the air here is brisk even in August, especially at night. During the day, the sun heats the stone to an intense, short-lived furnace. The climate is strikingly stark—almost Martian.
The fortress consists of three layers. The most prominent is the outer wall, nearly circular in shape, measuring about 180 meters across with a perimeter of roughly 600 meters. Angular bastions anchor its corners, built from uniform stone—clearly a 19th-century feature attributed to the khans of Erivan. The walls are accessible on foot, and from their height, the views are commanding. Once, these parapets offered a clear vantage over the surrounding plains—ideal for defense. Within the courtyard lies a vast water reservoir, carved into the bedrock, allowing the garrison to endure prolonged sieges without concern for water or supplies.
Restoration work began in 1961, reinforcing the fortress walls. Excavations in 1989–1990 uncovered multiple cultural layers, including Armenian, Arab, and Persian influences. One inscription reads: “May Allah elevate him. In the blessed month of Safar, year 570 [Islamic calendar], the master of this strong fortress, the prince, great spasalar, pillar of the faith, glorifier of Islam, son of Sultan Mahmud, son of Shavur.”
Inside the outer wall is a second, inner ring with a perimeter of about 150 meters. Much of it is in ruins, but this appears to be the original Shaddadid fortress, modified during Georgia’s control of the region. Within this inner circle stands a church in basilica form. Its date of construction remains uncertain. The space between the two walls was once filled with stone houses, now collapsed, their remains marring the landscape.
The fortress sits at the center of the village. Over time, rural homes have crept up around it—and even within it. This “settlement” occurred during the Soviet era. In 2005, the Armenian government allocated funds to clear the site of unauthorized buildings. Today, a few private houses remain. The result is a peculiar blend: layers of deep history alongside present-day village life. Beyond the outer walls, gnarled old trees stand guard, their twisted limbs casting shadows over traces of ancient foundations, still outlining the placement of homes long since turned to stone.
