Armenian Gyumri is often likened to Russia’s St. Petersburg. Like the northern capital, it is the second-largest city in the country and proudly bears the unofficial title of Armenia’s cultural capital. During Soviet times, it was named not Leningrad, but Leninakan—in honor of Vladimir Ilyich.
But it is not just its proximity to Yerevan that draws travelers to Gyumri. This is a city where hundreds of talented artists, poets, and craftsmen live and work, freely sharing their creations with the world. Gyumri feels like one grand, open-air gallery, overflowing with artworks shaped by local hands and spirits.
With its vivid character and architectural charm, Gyumri is a uniquely Armenian city shaped by striking historical buildings made of volcanic black tuff. Though the city has suffered two devastating earthquakes in the 20th century, it has risen each time from the rubble like a phoenix. It is often called the “City of Black Tuff,” and some of its older structures have miraculously withstood the test of time—including the legendary Black Fortress.
Despite being the second most populous city in Armenia, Gyumri is home to just over 120,000 people. Its pace is gentle, its streets calm, and its neighborhoods—Catholic, peasant, Greek, Turkish, Russian—each offer their own distinctive flair. Visitors are invited to wander among preserved 19th-century two-story homes, whose facades still whisper the stories of centuries past. Of particular charm is Abovyan Street, where history and artistry meet with every step.
Gyumri draws those who seek quiet, reflective walks along old cobbled streets, those curious about history and inspired by art. You can sip coffee at an outdoor café, spend the night in a restored aristocratic mansion, or venture into the surrounding mountains for a change of scenery. The city’s long-standing reputation as a haven for creative souls lives on. Though compact, it is rich in galleries and workshops that produce exquisite works of folk and decorative art, a spirit that lures travelers with an artistic heart.
Among Gyumri’s most iconic landmarks is the Black Fortress—built in 1837 by decree of Tsar Nicholas I and named after his consort, Empress Alexandra Feodorovna. For a time, the city itself bore the fortress’s name—Alexandropol—replacing its former name, Kumayri. This massive round fortification stands on the city’s western edge. Nearby lies a memorial park and the statue of Mother Armenia, a solemn tribute to the Great Patriotic War.
At the heart of the city is Vardanants Square, graced by a bronze statue of Vardan Mamikonian, the noble warrior and national hero who led the Armenian army against Persian forces. Facing the square is the All Saviors Church—Surb Amenaprkich—one of the most architecturally striking churches in Gyumri, its black tuff walls sharply outlined with bold orange trim. Behind the church lies an alley of khachkars, the intricately carved cross-stones unique to Armenia.
Another important site is Surb Astvatsatsin, the Church of the Holy Mother of God, dating back to the 17th century. Locals also call it Yot Verk—“Seven Wounds”—and it sits just across Vardanants Square.
Next to the city’s Central Park stands the Hill of Honor, a military memorial dedicated to Russian officers who died during the Russo-Turkish wars. Gyumri’s border location explains its strategic military history. On the hill stands the Russian Orthodox chapel of St. Michael the Archangel, also constructed of black tuff. Its gleaming dome has earned it the nickname “The Shining One.”
Sadly, many of Gyumri’s landmarks were badly damaged during the 1988 earthquake, and not all have been fully restored. Yet a significant portion of its historic architecture remains intact or has been carefully renovated, allowing the city’s old quarters to serve as living museums. The black tuff stone, a local material forged from ancient volcanic ash, lends the cityscape a distinct, almost painterly aesthetic.
Among Gyumri’s more curious monuments is the statue of the mshurbah—a singing jug, emblematic of the city’s artisan legacy and a popular souvenir. There’s even a public drinking fountain shaped like one.
The city boasts an impressive number of museums. Beyond the traditional museums of history and ethnography, there’s the Frunzik Mkrtchyan Museum (dedicated to the famed actor of Mimino and Kidnapping, Caucasian Style), an open-air railway museum featuring a rare steam-powered tank engine, and a Museum of Illusions. Art lovers won’t want to miss the Aslamazyan Sisters’ House-Museum or the Cobweb Art Gallery of contemporary artist Andranik Avetisyan, who crafts his extraordinary creations from spider silk.
Gyumri’s main pedestrian street is Ryzhkov Boulevard. Lined with open-air cafés, galleries, and boutique shops, the boulevard stretches from Vardanants Square to Peace Circle Park. It’s the ideal route for a leisurely stroll, fully immersed in the creative heartbeat of the city where artists and artisans thrive.
And for a touch of old-world charm, consider a ride in a phaeton—a traditional horse-drawn carriage that once symbolized style and pride among Gyumri gentlemen. Legend has it that a man of means would book not one, but three phaetons: one for himself, one for his hat, and one for the musicians who would accompany his ride.
The region surrounding Gyumri also holds treasures waiting to be discovered: the serene monasteries of Marmashen and Arichavank, the slumbering volcanic giant Mount Aragats, the alpine Lake Kari, and the Lake Arpi National Park.
In the village of Atsekats (also known as Toparli), visitors can try their luck with the legendary Ttsak Kar—a mystical stone with a small opening. Squeezing through it is said to grant wishes, and nearly every visitor makes the attempt, hoping to carry a bit of magic with them when they leave.
Gyumri is an ideal place to immerse yourself in Armenian culinary traditions—more specifically, the unique local flavor of the Shirak region. At the top of any gourmand’s list should be kyalla—a traditional dish featuring a lamb or beef head slow-roasted in a clay oven known as a tonir. This age-old preparation method yields rich, tender meat infused with smoky depth.
No true Armenian feast is complete without khash, a hearty soup brewed from cow’s feet. Rich, unctuous, and best enjoyed in the morning, it’s more than just a meal—it’s a ritual. Adventurous palates will be rewarded with panrkhash, a hot cheese dish that blends bold flavors with rustic charm, as well as tolma wrapped in vine leaves, golden kyufta meatballs, and local versions of pilaf that vary in spice, grain, and garnish. Be sure to try chanakh cheese, a robust, aged variety that pairs beautifully with warm lavash and a splash of homemade wine.
When it comes to sweets, Gyumri offers something truly special—yakhli. This delicate puff pastry, dusted generously with powdered sugar, is one of the city’s iconic desserts and a beloved local treat. If you’re a beer enthusiast, don’t miss the chance to sample Gyumri’s own brew, crafted at Alexandropol Brewery—the oldest in Armenia. You can even take a tour of the facility, complete with tastings of this time-honored beer.
Gyumri has carved out its own niche in the world of Armenian souvenirs, with one signature piece in particular—the mshurbah, or “singing jug.” Handcrafted from copper or brass, and sometimes even rendered in silver or gold, the mshurbah produces a melodic gurgling sound reminiscent of a mountain spring.
Another quirky local souvenir is the Gyumrik—a wooden keychain in the shape of a tiny human figure.
Of course, you’ll also find a wide array of classic Armenian gifts: hand-thrown ceramics, ethnic-style jewelry, finely crafted leather and wooden goods, aged cheeses, and traditional sweets that make for perfect presents or treasured reminders of your journey.
Gyumri is easily accessible from Yerevan via the South Caucasus Railway. Depending on the season, between three and five trains run daily between the two cities. All trains depart from the station on David Sasuntsi Square, which is conveniently reached by metro despite its location on the city’s edge. Regular departures leave at 07:55, 14:25, and 18:25, with the journey taking just over three hours. From Friday to Sunday, a special express train also operates, trimming the travel time to a swift 2 hours and 10 minutes. The ride is scenic, revealing sweeping plains, majestic mountain silhouettes, and views of the shimmering Akhuryan Reservoir.
Buses also run between Yerevan and Gyumri, departing from the David Sasuntsi Bus Station. There’s no fixed timetable—buses simply depart once they’ve filled up with passengers. The ride takes around three hours, though it promises a bit more of an adventure. While the landscape is undeniably captivating, the road itself can be rough in parts, with sharp turns, narrow mountain passes, and stretches that feel more remote than refined. Be prepared for a thrill, and don’t forget your camera—the views alone are worth the ride.
