Marmashen Monastery

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Marmashen Monastery

Marmashen Monastery stands quietly between the villages of Marmashen and Vagramaberd, nestled in the gorge of the Akhuryan River. The area is serene, secluded from the noise of everyday life. Unlike most medieval Armenian monastic centers—often built in remote or defensible terrain, such as Arich, Tatev, or Akhtala—Marmashen is an exception. Erected as the summer residence of Prince Vahram Pahlavuni, it stood close to Ani, the then-capital of Armenia. Defensive structures were deemed unnecessary; the builders chose instead to emphasize aesthetic harmony between the churches and their surroundings.

The monastery complex consists of three main churches. At its center is the principal and best-preserved structure, a domed red-brick basilica. Its cruciform façade is lined with arched niches and narrow windows. The umbrella-shaped dome rises on a polygonal drum, commanding the skyline.

The cathedral—St. Stepanos, also known as Katoghike—was built by the sparapet (commander) Prince Vahram Pahlavuni between 988 and 1029. According to tradition, the architect Trdat was invited to design it. Trdat, renowned for restoring the dome of Hagia Sophia in Constantinople, also constructed the Catholicos’ residence and the royal palace in Ani, as well as the Church of Surb Nshan in the Haghpat Monastery.

Nearby, one finds the partially ruined Church of the Holy Mother of God. Its collapsed vault reveals the inner stonework of its thick walls.

The third church, dedicated to St. Peter, dates from the 11th century. Simpler in form and scale, it lacks the architectural grandeur of the main church.

A short distance away, atop a hill, part of another church wall can be seen—likely a chapel, as evidenced by a medieval cemetery nearby. In the early 20th century, only five tombstones were visible. Later excavations uncovered many more graves—belonging to clergy, courtiers, and even Princess Sophia, wife of Prince Vahram.

One unexpected discovery came in the 1950s. Buried beneath a villager’s barn lay the ruins of a fourth church. Its foundations—circular in shape—were uncharacteristic of Armenian ecclesiastical architecture. When the village was relocated, excavations revealed the long-hidden structure.

Marmashen’s flourishing was brief. Once a center of learning, with a large library, the monastery could not withstand the Seljuk invasions that swept across Armenia. Unlike Arich or Tatev, it never developed into a major center of theology or art. In the 13th century, however, the Zakarian princes restored the Pahlavuni family’s estates. In 1225, Vahram’s grandsons—Archbishop Grigor and his brother Harib (or Garib)—rebuilt the monastery and encircled it with defensive walls.

They also ordered the monastery’s history inscribed on the cathedral’s wall, preserving its story for future generations.

The protective wall eventually gave rise to a village around the monastery, named Vagramaberd—“Fortress of Vahram.” Numerous khachkars—stone crosses—dot the area, some ancient, others recent.

Despite waves of conquest and destruction, the monastery endured. In the early 19th century, after yet another Russo-Turkish war, the new border between the Russian Empire and Ottoman Turkey ran through the Akhuryan gorge. Armenian families from Kars and nearby regions resettled in Vagramaberd, finding shelter in the shadow of the sacred cross. A village school was also founded near the monastery.

Locals took responsibility for preserving the site, maintaining and occasionally repairing the buildings. But nature proved a more formidable enemy. In 1883, a powerful earthquake destroyed the Church of the Holy Mother of God and damaged other structures. A few years later, Catholicos Mkrtich Khrimian—known as Khrimian Hayrik—oversaw a restoration.

Church services continued at Marmashen until 1923, when the Bolsheviks banned religious activity. The monastery was secularized and designated a cultural monument under state care.

It survived two more earthquakes. After the 1988 Spitak disaster, a large crack appeared in the wall of Katoghike, threatening the entire structure. In 2000, an Italian restoration team led by Gayane Casnati stabilized the wall and carried out additional work.

Today, the situation surrounding Marmashen is unusual. Although services are once again held in its churches, the buildings themselves do not legally belong to the Armenian Apostolic Church. This might seem a technicality—until recent developments posed a grave threat.

A hydroelectric dam was constructed across the Akhuryan River, forming a reservoir that dramatically increased moisture levels in the area. This persistent dampness endangers the ancient churches’ foundations and mortar. Yet, due to the monastery’s unresolved ownership, the Church cannot officially begin restoration.

Cultural Journey Through Armenia

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7 Days / 6 Nights

Climb Yerevan’s Cascade Monument
Taste wine in Areni village
Explore Noravank’s cliffside monastery
Ride Wings of Tatev tramway
Discover ancient khachkars in Goshavank
Visit UNESCO-listed Haghpat monastery

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