Baghaberd Fortress

Baghaberd (also known as Kapan Fortress) stands as a solemn reminder of Armenia’s enduring spirit, perched between the towns of Kapan and Kajaran in the Syunik Province, near the village of David Bek, where the rivers Geghi and Voghji converge.

The fortress rises 200 meters above the valley floor, commanding the landscape from a rocky outcrop. Once a vast stronghold, Baghaberd was laced with subterranean chambers and concealed corridors. Its red stones, coral-like in hue and pattern, blend seamlessly with the cliffs, as if carved by the mountain itself.

The origin of the fortress is debated. Archaeological and literary sources suggest it predates Christianity, with some scholars dating it to the 3rd or 4th century. Historian Stepanos Orbelian believed Baghaberd existed in 350 AD and served King Arshak II during his war against Persian Shah Shapur II. Legend holds that in the 4th century, Shapur’s army failed to breach its walls during a campaign into Zangezur. Today, only fragments of the ramparts remain—visible from David Bek’s central square—but the ascent is still worth it for the sweeping views alone.

Baghaberd’s golden age began in 987. With the rise of the Syunik Kingdom, the fortress became its gate and citadel. When the Seljuks captured and destroyed Kapan in 1103, Baghaberd was declared the new capital. In times of crisis, Syunik’s nobility hid their treasures and manuscripts here, trusting its walls above all else.

In 1170, Seljuks from Ganja led by Atabek Eldiguz stormed the fortress. They massacred its inhabitants, set fire to over 10,000 manuscripts from Tatev Monastery, looted the royal treasury, and left Baghaberd in ruin. It was never fully rebuilt.

By 1211, the Zakarian princes had reclaimed Syunik, and the Orbelians took over governance. Baghaberd held firm for nearly another century until it finally fell to Timur (Tamerlane) at the close of the 14th century.

Strategically placed on a triangular promontory, the fortress was designed with three levels of defense. The first ran along the cliff base; the second was set 150 meters higher; and the third crowned the summit. Double walls reinforced with towers encircled the fortress. Steep gorges formed natural barriers on both flanks, while the eastern side—more exposed—was shored up with retaining walls and pyramid-shaped buttresses. In some areas, rock faces were hewn to resemble vertical walls. The sole entrance lay in the southwest corner, defended by a watchtower.

Within the fortress were underground tunnels, vaulted halls carved into the rock, and an aqueduct—now barely traceable. Remnants of the fortress walls still reach heights of six to eight meters. Over time, locals dismantled sections to repurpose stones for construction. The site suffered further damage during Soviet roadworks in the 20th century. Construction of the Kapan–Kajaran highway led to the destruction of sections of the wall, including pyramidal structures atop it. Today, two damaged pyramids still stand beside the road—mute witnesses to what once was.