St. Katoghike Church

Perhaps one of the most enigmatic and captivating sites within modern-day Yerevan is the Church of the Holy Mother of God Katoghike, also known as the Avan Temple, founded in the 6th century. This is the oldest surviving church within the city limits, a relic of antiquity that has withstood the wear of time and upheaval. Constructed between 591 and 602 AD, the church underwent restorations in the early 1940s and again during the 1950s and 60s. Despite these efforts, it still stands today in a semi-ruined state, cloaked in quiet solemnity.

Tucked away in a district of private homes, the church continues to receive visitors — not just curious tourists, but locals who come to pray and reflect, drawn by a deep-rooted reverence. This enduring connection between people and place is emblematic of Armenian spiritual culture. Modest in both scale and ornamentation, the Katoghike Church resembles more a chapel than a grand cathedral, ideally suited for intimate prayers and small congregational rites. A prevailing belief holds that this sacred site brings good fortune, and visitors often tuck coins into crevices in the ancient stonework as tokens of hope and devotion.

Can you guess the date inscribed on the earliest wall inscriptions? A remarkable 1264 AD — a testament to the church’s deep historical roots. Following the catastrophic earthquake of 1679, the structure suffered significant damage and underwent substantial alterations. A massive basilica was added to its western side. This newer construction, fashioned in the Armenian architectural tradition, was made from pink tuff and notably lacked a dome. Designed as a three-nave basilica, it was among the most spacious churches in the region, featuring a distinctive two-sided entrance that welcomed worshippers from multiple directions.

From the 17th to the 18th centuries, Katoghike stood as one of Yerevan’s most important churches, enduring the ravages of both wars and earthquakes. However, under Soviet rule, in 1936, the basilica was shuttered and ultimately demolished. Miraculously, the small medieval chapel that had formed the original heart of the church was preserved. A school was later erected beside it, which would eventually house the Academy of Sciences.

Recognizing the site’s profound historical and cultural significance, the architect responsible for the Soviet-era building made a deliberate effort to preserve the sacred chapel — embedding it within the walls of the new structure. In the early 21st century, as Armenia began restoring its religious heritage, the ancient church was freed from its architectural confinement, and in 2009, it was solemnly consecrated once more, regaining its rightful place in the spiritual life of the city.

Numerous khachkars — intricately carved cross-stones from the 15th to 17th centuries, discovered in the rubble of the destroyed basilica — stand today as quiet guardians of the past and enduring proof that the decision to preserve the original chapel was profoundly justified.

As with many of Armenia’s ecclesiastical treasures, the basilica is constructed from tuff, a stone that lends the building its soft, rose-hued glow. The main entrance, adorned with arched vaults, features carved images of saints, while a small side chapel remains nearby, reserved for sacraments and private prayer. The dampness that clings to its ancient stone foundation adds to the aura of venerable age.

Inside, the interior is more elaborate than would have been typical in the 13th century. One can admire a range of sculptures and bas-reliefs, which are relatively rare in Armenian church design. These ornate details include vivid ornamental carvings of plants, animals, birds, and human faces, each one breathing life into stone.

The altar, resplendent in crimson velvet, is adorned with icons and candle pedestals. Graceful staircases ascend to the upper sanctuaries, drawing the eye upward and lending the church a sense of vertical aspiration — as if it continues its age-old conversation with the heavens.