Khan’s Palace in Nakhichevan

In Nakhchivan, history enthusiasts should not miss the Nakhchivan Khan’s Palace, an exquisite example of Eastern architecture that harmonizes beautifully with the surrounding nature, painted in warm orange tones. From the mid-18th century until the early 20th century, this building served as the residence of the rulers of the Nakhchivan Khanate—one of many independent small states that emerged in the Caucasus and Iran following the death of Shah Nadir in 1747. Initially, this richly adorned three-story structure, featuring stained glass windows in the “shebeke” style, functioned as a carpet museum. Since 2010, it has been transformed into a museum dedicated to this remarkable period of Azerbaijani history.

After the death of Shah Nadir in 1747, historical Azerbaijan, spanning both sides of the Aras River, fragmented into around twenty small khanates. Among these was the Nakhchivan Khanate, where the Kengerli tribe evolved into a ruling dynasty. Rather than returning to the partially destroyed Old Fortress, they chose to build a new one on the site of the summer residence of the Ildegizid Atabeks, known as Dar-ul-Mulk.

Though small and relatively minor, the Nakhchivan Khanate enjoyed a generally peaceful existence nestled between the powerful khanates of Erivan and Karabakh, with which local rulers preferred to maintain good relations. Its territory was divided into 7 to 8 magals, each led by a mirzabay, along with numerous villages governed by kendkhuds. The entire army of Nakhchivan consisted of just 1,000 men, including the elite Kengerli cavalry—the khan’s tribe was exempt from taxes but was required to serve in the military. Among them was the khan’s guard, commanded by the gullyar-agasi. Other ethnic groups contributed only foot soldiers (sarbaz), and overall, the Nakhchivan Khanate engaged in very few conflicts. In 1795, after a disagreement with Karabakh, it lost Sisian, its most distant magal beyond Zangezur (now in Armenia). The relative security of the army was bolstered by its geographical position; the Kengerli throne lasted nearly a century, witnessing the reign of about ten khans. 

At the turn of the 18th to 19th centuries, all these khanates, mired in internal strife, began to be systematically annexed by Russia. However, during the wars of 1804 and 1808, the Russian army was unable to capture Erivan, and thus did not reach Nakhchivan. Nevertheless, had they arrived, they would likely have faced little resistance; at that time, Khalbali Khan, the ruling khan, was blind, having had his eyes gouged out by the eunuch Agha Muhammad Qajar from Mazandaran, the new Persian shah who had plunged his country into bloodshed in his quest for the throne, rivaling the foreign invaders.

Amidst the turmoil of war, Khalbali Kengerli’s status fluctuated between that of a vassal khan and a hakim (governor), but the hatred towards the Qajars became a legacy of his lineage. When a new Russo-Persian war broke out, initiated by the Qajars in their quest for revenge, Eskhan Khan Kengerli pledged allegiance to Russia upon the first appearance of its troops in his territory. He later ruled as a naib (vice-governor) until 1839 under a nominal Russian official, and his descendants became the noble family of Khan-Nakhchivan. True to their Turkic heritage, they remained warriors at heart—four generals from this family served the tsar.

The Khan-Nakhchivan family owned the old palace, which in some sense continued to embody an “honorary khanate” across the Aras, re-emerging as a factual entity in 1918 with the establishment of the Aras Republic, whose capital was in Igdir. Proclaimed under Ottoman auspices, power quickly shifted to the Khan-Nakhchivan family, led by Jafar Kuli. This led to a prolonged conflict with the Armenians and an invasion by the Red Army, prompting part of the khan’s family to emigrate to Iran (not far, as they only had to cross the Aras!). There, they retained their military ranks; General Khalbali Khan-Nakhchivan perished in 1931 while suppressing a Kurdish uprising. Remarkably, this family served not only the tsar but also the Soviet authorities—red brigade commander Jamshid Nakhchivan was executed in 1938. Among the remnants of those times, a pair of cannons still stands in the khan’s garden.

The palace itself was constructed in the 1780s, and the first resident of its chambers was Khalbali Khan Kengerli, the father of the last Nakhchivan khan, Ehsan Khan, who was later blinded by the shah. Across the Aras, various khanates—such as Ardabil, Zanjan, Karadag (Ahar), Makins, Maragha, Sarab, Tabriz, Khalkhal, and Khoy—were reabsorbed under the authority of the Tehran shah, forming what is now Iranian Azerbaijan. However, in Northern Azerbaijan, authentic khan palaces have survived only in Nakhchivan and Sheki up to the 21st century. While the Nakhchivan Palace may not boast the same exquisite decor as its Sheki counterpart, it is significantly larger and maintains a similar architectural design.

The khans and their descendants resided in the palace until 1920. The building consists of two floors and was originally divided into two halves; the southern section was designated for administrative affairs and hosting distinguished guests, while the northern section served as the living quarters for the khan’s family.

On the lower level, servants lived, and today it houses auxiliary facilities and museum administration. The upper floor features a series of small halls:

The northern part, near the loggias, was ceremonial. As in Persia, the entire hall is adorned with mirrors, creating a dazzling effect that reflects the light beautifully.

In the northern wing of the palace were the actual quarters of the khan, which, by the 19th century, had transformed into a noble residence with a distinctly European appearance, showcasing the blend of cultures that characterized the region.

Among the museum’s most intriguing exhibits is the banner of the Kengerli cavalry. Following their khan, they pledged allegiance to Russia and remained an elite irregular unit of 350 horsemen. The residents of Nakhchivan, as before, paid a special tax for its maintenance, ensuring the cavalry was always battle-ready—a quality admired by Tsar Nicholas I during his visit to the Caucasus in 1837. The Kengerli cavalry fought valiantly against the Turks in 1828-29 and 1854, but following the Crimean War, they were disbanded as a separate unit and integrated into the regular army.

The Nakhchivan Khan’s Palace has long captivated the attention of travelers and diplomats visiting the city. It is mentioned in the writings, diaries, and memoirs of orientalists, diplomats, and military personnel who visited Nakhchivan in the 19th century. A document from the early 19th century describes the roads from Artika to Tabriz, compiled by Russian Army Major Matushevich on September 10, 1806. He noted that the khan’s palace was located within the inner citadel of the Nakhchivan fortress, surrounded by towers, and that the wall enclosing the palace was not particularly sturdy. The Russian officer remarked that the fortress was built atop a steep cliff, providing a favorable position for defense.

“The Nakhchivan castle has six towers; in 1803, it housed four cannons in poor condition. The walls of this castle are not strong and are low; one wall on the Aras side is weakened by windows in the khan’s house located within the same fortress. It could easily be breached with a few cannon shots. There is no moat around the castle, and Nakhchivan cannot defend itself against regular troops.”
— September 10, 1806 — Description of the roads from Artika to Tabriz, compiled by Major Matushevich.

In 1834, the renowned Swiss traveler, geologist, naturalist, and archaeologist Dubois de Montpere visited the city. The results of his research were published in the six-volume work “Journey Around the Caucasus,” which he released in Paris between 1839 and 1844. Montpere highly praised the historical monuments of Nakhchivan: “…Among these monuments… the palace in the Persian style, consisting of several courtyards and richly decorated rooms…”.

In the early 20th century, Nakhchivan was visited by the 29-year-old Italian historian and diplomat Luigi Villari, who published his travel notes in the book “Russia After the Great Revolution: Fire and Sword in the Caucasus,” which includes a description of the Nakhchivan Khan’s Palace:

“At first, I met with Rahim Khan… His house is undoubtedly the most beautiful in Nakhchivan. This palace would be magnificent even in the most civilized city. The palace is situated at the edge of the city, near a cliff, from where a road descends into the broad Aras valley. The garden in the courtyard is not very lush—apparently, the local climate does not allow for the planting of various flowering shrubs. However, the inside of the house is lavishly decorated. The living room is filled with expensive European furniture, which, with a few exceptions, is exquisite. Persian, Turkish, and Caucasian carpets hang on all the walls, and the ceiling is adorned with small mirrors, creating a stunning visual effect. Such a mosaic I had seen in the palace of the Erivan sardar. The materials for the decorations were all brought from afar by railway, purchased at any cost. All of this was intended to impress visitors with the wealth and dignity of the Nakhchivan family.”

Today, the palace serves as a museum, inviting visitors to explore its opulent halls and delve into the stories of the khans who once resided there.

As you wander through the palace, you can almost hear the echoes of the past—the whispers of dignitaries, the laughter of guests, and the solemnity of ceremonies that once took place within its walls. Each room offers a glimpse into a bygone era, where the elegance of Eastern design meets the grandeur of historical significance.