Juma mosque, Ordubad

Nestled beside the Zorhane and adjacent to a charming square, the Juma Mosque stands proudly at the highest point in Ordubad City. Recently restored, the exact date of its original construction remains uncertain. The mosque’s architecture is characterized by deep arched niches that are intricately attached to the frames of the arches, a distinctive feature of sacred structures in the region.

At the entrance of the mosque lies a significant stone dating back to 1607, inscribed with a decree from Shah Abbas I. This decree granted Ordubad exemption from taxes and levies in recognition of its brave resistance against the Turkish forces that occupied the Transcaucasus from 1584 to 1602. This transformation of Ordubad into a free economic zone, coupled with the deportation of Armenians, opened up numerous economic opportunities in Nakhchivan and paved the way for the city’s flourishing over the next two to three centuries.

On the facade of the mosque, one can also find the emblem of the Shah, further emphasizing its historical significance. The Juma Mosque serves as a quintessential example of Ordubad’s architectural style, embodying the innovative ideas of local architects. Many of these design elements would later influence the architecture of Yerevan, Shusha, and Sheki in the 16th century. The current structure of the mosque was likely erected in the 18th century. It is situated on a slight elevation and is surrounded by majestic plane trees. The entrance doors are adorned with inserts of green or turquoise tiles, adding to the mosque’s aesthetic charm.

Above the main entrance on the eastern side, an inscription commemorates the decree of Shah Abbas from 1608, reiterating the city’s tax exemptions for its courageous stand against the Turkish invaders. This decree not only marked the beginning of Ordubad’s status as a free economic zone but also significantly contributed to its economic revival, leading to a period of prosperity that lasted for centuries. The city owes much of its status to the vizier of the great Shah, Khatam-bek Ordubadi, whose leadership played a crucial role in the architectural and economic resurgence following the prolonged Ottoman-Persian wars.

The city’s special status is further highlighted by a lavish panel featuring two lions holding the Shah’s crown—an emblem of Shah Abbas I’s authority—above the northern entrance of the mosque. Below this composition, the renowned 18th-century Ordubad engraver, Zeynal Naggash, depicted a ten-sided medallion framed by a mysterious ornamentation.

This unique lion composition is unparalleled and serves as a testament to the significant role Ordubad played in the Persian state during the 16th and 17th centuries. The history of the Juma Mosque supports this narrative; during times of war, it often served as a military headquarters, a meeting place, and a storage site for state documents. The presence of state authority symbolism in mosques is a rarity, typically found only in the mosques of Shah in Damascus, Baghdad, Cairo, and Cordoba, Spain. Being included in this esteemed group signifies that Ordubad was once regarded as the “Flowerbed of Tabriz,” the second most important city after the empire’s capital. When Tabriz fell into enemy hands—a frequent occurrence between the 14th and 18th centuries—Ordubad emerged as the center for organizing military resistance.

Adjacent to the mosque stands a building shrouded in even greater mystery—the military academy from the 17th century, as indicated by an inscription on its glazed tiles. This inscription, translated by the Orientalist Jabir Jabiev, states: “By the decree of Nadir, the Shah, Commander Muhammad Ibrahim opened a military school in 1724.”

A year earlier, Peter I had launched a campaign on Baku, seizing the Caspian regions. Graduates from this military academy, under the command of Ordubadi Muhammad Ibrahim, played a pivotal role in liberating Isfahan from Afghan control and freeing Azerbaijan and eastern Georgia from Ottoman rule. Nadir Shah’s successful military campaigns led Russia to cede Baku and Derbent to him. The forces commanded by Muhammad Ibrahim conquered India and, on their return, annexed the Bukhara and Khiva Khanates into Nadir Shah’s empire. The graduates of this military school were highly sought after and actively participated in Nadir Shah’s military campaigns. The academy produced officers, diplomats, and spies, and its history merits a separate study. There is no other military institution in the Republic of Azerbaijan founded in the 17th century that parallels this academy.