Kharaba Gilan (Ancient Gilan)

Another remarkable chapter in the history of Ordubad highlights the city’s significant role in the Eastern Renaissance. Just five kilometers from the village of Yukhary Aza and 22 kilometers from Ordubad lie the ruins of the medieval city of Kharaba-Gilan. At the heart of this ancient settlement stands a fortified citadel, originally constructed in the 5th century. Archaeological excavations have unearthed a wealth of artifacts, including intricately decorated ceramic vessels, copper wares, a silver drachma of Mithridates II (123–88 BCE), and a gold solidus of Emperor Honorius (395–423 CE). These discoveries attest to the city’s thriving trade relations with the Mediterranean world.

Despite its historical significance, Kharaba-Gilan remains largely absent from historical literature. At the city’s center, the ruins of the ancient fortress dominate the landscape. Beyond the crumbled walls and remnants of buildings, the traces of a mausoleum, a mosque, and several towers are still visible. The outlines of irrigation canals, which once channeled water from the Gilyanchay River, can also be discerned—a testament to the city’s sophisticated agricultural practices.

In 1912, a remarkable treasure trove of nearly 500 gold coins was discovered at the site. Today, five of these coins are displayed in the Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg, another five reside in the State Historical Museum in Moscow, and two can be found in the National Museum of Tbilisi. The whereabouts of the remaining 488 coins remain a mystery. Most of the treasure dates back to the 12th and 13th centuries, during the reign of the Eldiguzids, when Nakhchivan served as one of their capitals and Gilan was the region’s second most important city. However, unlike Ordubad—which endured and rebuilt itself after invasions by the Mongols, Ottomans, and Persians—Gilan was razed by Mongol forces and never recovered. What accounts for the diverging fates of these neighboring cities? There is no oil here, yet gold hoards have been discovered in both Gilan and Ordubad.

The ruins of Kharaba-Gilan stretch across an area of 100 to 500 hectares, a vast expanse that speaks to the city’s former grandeur. Archaeologists and historians are particularly captivated by the site’s imposing necropolis. Scattered across the ground are relics of the past—human remains, fragments of clay pottery, and large megalithic slabs—all lying exposed underfoot.

In its prime, Kharaba-Gilan was a majestic city, built over 4,000 years ago. However, powerful natural disasters eventually led to its downfall. A devastating earthquake in the 14th century reduced the city to rubble, leaving little more than fragmented memories in its wake.

The name “Kharaba-Gilan” translates to “the sunken city,” a fitting description when one observes the jagged, contorted earth—twisted as though molded from pliable clay. One structure, perched on a hill known as Plovdag, stands out as a potential key to unlocking the city’s mysteries. From a distance, the building resembles a pyramid, but upon closer inspection, it appears more akin to an ancient temple—a silent sentinel guarding the secrets of a lost civilization.