Zarzma Monastery is a well-kept secret within the realm of Georgian tourism. Nestled in the village of Zarzma in the Samtskhe-Javakheti Region, this medieval Orthodox complex is just a 40-minute drive from the town of Akhaltsikhe. While Zarzma is adorned with breathtaking frescoes and steeped in ancient lore, its remote location and poor road conditions mean it is seldom frequented by tourists. For those seeking to venture off the beaten path, the stunning natural landscapes and medieval ambiance of Zarzma Monastery offer a truly rewarding experience.
Constructed between the 8th and 9th centuries, the origins of Zarzma Monastery are chronicled in the book “The Lives of Georgian Saints.” According to this account, a religious teacher named Mikael received a vision of a man clad in priestly robes who instructed him to send his disciple, Serapion Zarzmeli, and his brother Ioane to the historic Samtskhe Region to establish a monastery. Heeding the divine call, the two men journeyed to Samtskhe, carrying with them the Icon of the Transfiguration of Jesus Christ.
Upon their arrival, the monks sought a suitable location for their church, but faced opposition from local residents who were resistant to their plans. Undeterred, they continued their search until they discovered the precise spot Mikael had envisioned. The land was owned by the benevolent Lord Giorgi Chorchaneli, who welcomed the monks warmly, reverently worshipped the icon, and sought their blessing. Chorchaneli graciously granted them the land they desired for the monastery.
Despite this support, Serapion and Ioane encountered further resistance from the locals. According to legend, a powerful earthquake struck during the night, splitting the mountainside in two, yet miraculously, the monks emerged unscathed. The frightened townspeople began referring to the site as Zarzma, which translates to “Appalling.”
Three years later, the church was completed, and the miraculous Icon of the Transfiguration of Jesus Christ was enshrined within its walls. This revered icon, dating back to 886 AD, is a remarkable example of Georgian engraving art from the feudal era. It remained in Zarzma Monastery for centuries before being relocated to the Art Museum of Georgia in Tbilisi, where it is preserved to this day.
Another significant relic from Zarzma Monastery is a 10th-century inscription found on the archway of the church entrance. This inscription recounts the story of David III Kuropalates, a Georgian king who valiantly fought against the insurrectionist Bardas Sclerus in 979, after Sclerus rebelled against Byzantine Emperor Basil II. Following Sclerus’s defeat, King David III was commended for his military support.
The current church and bell tower of Zarzma Monastery were constructed in the first half of the 14th century during the reign of Beka Jakeli, an independent ruler in Samtkhe whose family played a significant role in the flourishing of monastic life in the region during the 13th and 14th centuries. The complex underwent substantial renovations in the 18th and 19th centuries, and today, monastic life continues to thrive at Zarzma, welcoming pilgrims and tourists alike.
Zarzma Monastery comprises a main domed church, a bell tower, and single-nave chapels, exemplifying the distinctive style of 18th and 19th-century Georgian architecture. The proportions of the buildings exhibit noticeable changes compared to earlier designs, reflecting the evolution of architectural trends. The church walls are richly adorned with intricate carvings and murals depicting both saints and historical figures, marking some of the earliest examples of secular representations in Georgian art. Among the painted figures are Sargis Jakeli with his three children, as well as King Bagrat III and his father, Serapion Khurtsidze.
The bell tower of Zarzma is one of the largest of its kind in Georgia. In the 16th century, patrons of the monastery replaced some of the original church paintings with new artworks, added arches to the ground floor of the bell tower, and renamed it the Church of John the Apostle. The complex underwent further restoration in the early 20th century; however, this process resulted in damage to some of the original colors and stylistic features that defined Zarzma Monastery’s unique character.
