Nestled 70 kilometers from Tbilisi at the confluence of the Aragvi and Vedzathevi rivers, Ananuri Fortress stands as one of Georgia’s most significant landmarks. It was included in the nomination for UNESCO World Heritage status in 2012 and is recognized as one of the best-preserved monuments from the early feudal era. There is something undeniably captivating about these somber structures, drawing visitors who seek to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the Middle Ages, with all its grim and dark events. The remnants of past brutal battles are evident everywhere within the fortress. Tourists traveling into Georgia along the Military Highway cannot help but notice this majestic edifice.
The fortress is believed to have been founded in the 16th century. For the next two centuries, it served as a crucial defensive stronghold for the inhabitants of the South Caucasus. During this period, the region was governed by the Aragvi eristavis, whose residence was in Dusheti—a small town nestled in the Vedzathevi River gorge. To protect Dusheti, a tower was constructed, followed shortly by the Ananuri Fortress. Little is known about the inhabitants of the fortress and the town during that time, with historical records only beginning to mention them around 1720. According to these sources, the eristavis frequently feuded with one another, and the fortress provided refuge for the local populace during raids.
Originally, the complex was designed to defend the road upon which its structures are so picturesque situated. This refers to the old road, now partially submerged by the river, which can only be traversed to a certain point. The modern road was built much later, elevated above the old one. The fortress protected the retreat into the mountains, serving as a hiding place not only for nearby residents but also for people from other regions of Georgia fleeing from enemies.
Notably, Ananuri continued to fulfill its defensive role into the early 19th century when Georgia joined Russia. A Russian garrison was stationed here to guard the Military Highway connecting the two nations. After the Russian troops left the fortress, it fell into disrepair.
Perhaps the most famous visitor to Ananuri was the renowned poet Alexander Pushkin. According to archival records, he visited the fortress in 1829, notably walking from the nearby village of Pasanauri, located 45 kilometers from Dusheti.
Today, Ananuri Fortress is open to all who wish to explore it, with free entry to the grounds. Not far from the fortress lies the Jinvali Reservoir, which offers stunning views from the fortress walls.
Originally, the fortress walls stood at a height of 5-6 meters, but this was insufficient for effective defense, leading to an increase in height by an additional 2-3 meters. To the east and north, a lower fortress was added, encompassing an area three times larger than the upper fortress. Currently, its walls are almost entirely in ruins, and many buildings from the 19th and 20th centuries have been constructed within its former courtyard, making it impossible to restore its original appearance.
The surviving circular wall of the upper fortress features five diverse towers, equipped with arrow slits and machicolations (openings in the walls for shooting and pouring hot tar on enemies).
Entrance Tower – The entrance is also protected by machicolations. In the entrance tower, the ground floor contains the gates, with three additional floors above featuring wooden ceilings. The second floor was likely used as living quarters, while the two upper floors served defensive purposes, topped with a terrace. The side walls (the tower is square) include pointed niches.
Northern Tower – The northern walls include a low three-story tower that protrudes semi-circularly from the fortifications. The northern walls are thicker at the base and taper off towards the top, adorned with beautiful battlements along the upper edge. A ledge on the inner side is designed for the movement of defenders. Today, daring tourists often climb this ledge for breathtaking views of the Jinvali Reservoir.
“Steadfast” Tower – Sheupovari is the largest square tower in Ananuri, with walls 1.5 to 2 meters thick that taper towards the top. It consists of seven floors, six of which feature arrow slits and observation niches, along with fireplaces. The wooden ceilings between the floors have survived slightly better than in the other towers; only in Sheupovari can visitors ascend the stairs to the very top and capture stunning photographs.
Pyramidal Tower – Among the other structures, the unique pyramidal tower with a stepped roof stands out. It is considered the very first structure built in Ananuri and is also referred to as a Khevsur tower.
Within the fortress walls, the most notable constructions are three churches. The Church of Mkuriali is located in the lower, ruined part of Ananuri. Its bell tower is adorned with beautiful arches, and its columns have eight facets. Set against the backdrop of the turquoise waters of Jinvali, it presents a striking sight.
In the Church of the Virgin Mary, a tombstone is installed, inscribed with a text recounting that it was erected in 1674 by Anna Abashidze in memory of her husband, Mdivanbeg Edishere, son of Eristavi Giorgi and brother of Eristavi Otari. Notably, the inscription reveals Anna’s lament that God had sent her five daughters but no son.
The Assumption Church is the largest in the complex, built by Mdivanbeg Bardzim in 1689, as noted in the inscription on one of its exterior walls. Although its architecture is considered classical for Georgian ecclesiastical design, the Assumption Church is unique as one of the earliest religious structures in the country. The church’s walls are adorned with crosses and grapevines, a motif not commonly found in buildings constructed in later centuries. The interior decor of the Assumption Church has been partially preserved, and historians believe that the altar paintings were created by a local artist.
The facades are embellished with exquisite carvings depicting crosses, figures, cherubs, animals, and grapevines, with birds pecking at the berries. Inside, beautiful frescoes have survived in part. Climbing to the very top of the Sheupovari tower provides an excellent vantage point for capturing stunning photographs of the Assumption Church from above.
It is hard to imagine, but once this fortress thrived with life. From the 13th century onwards, the region was ruled by the Aragvi eristavis (a feudal title in Georgia, ranking third after king and prince).
Conflict often erupted among the eristavis, and the fortress endured numerous battles, its walls having witnessed much bloodshed. Perhaps this is why visitors to Ananuri often remark on the palpable sense of the fleeting nature of existence and the fragility of life.
Today, only the citadel remains from the fortress’s former grandeur. This last stronghold was designed to accommodate a military garrison and its supplies in case all primary fortifications were destroyed. Remarkably, despite all the battles and fires, the oldest structure—the very first tower with the pyramidal roof—has survived.
Not all tourists are aware that below the castle, along the path to the reservoir, lies an abandoned church with a grass-covered roof, alongside the ruins of crumbling fortress walls.
The fortress was inhabited until the early 19th century. During the period of annexation to Russia, a Russian garrison was stationed here to safeguard the road connecting Georgia and Russia and to maintain order.
Located 40 kilometers from the capital, Jinvali Reservoir provides water to Tbilisi. It is the largest artificial lake in Georgia, stretching 14 kilometers in length and reaching a depth of 75 meters, covering an area of 12 square kilometers. To create the reservoir, nearby villages along the Aragvi River were submerged.
Adjacent to the reservoir is the Jinvali Hydroelectric Power Station, recently acquired by Swiss investors, along with a village of the same name.
Along the route from Tbilisi to Jinvali, several viewpoints allow travelers to stop and capture stunning photos against the backdrop of the dark green, forested mountain slopes and the incredibly vibrant turquoise waters.
Georgia is dotted with historical monuments, and Jinvali is no exception. Once, an ancient city stood where the reservoir now lies. Remnants of its structures can still be found along the shores of the lake.