Nestled just nine kilometers from the charming Georgian town of Borjomi lies a historical gem known as Mtsvane Monastery, or the Green Monastery. This poetic name, bestowed upon the religious complex by the locals, stems from the lush vegetation that envelops the area and the greenish hue of the monastery’s stone walls. Over time, this affectionate name has largely supplanted its official title, the Chitakhevi Monastery of Saint George.
However, don’t be misled into thinking this serene spot is devoid of visitors. In recent years, throngs of pilgrims and tourists have flocked to the site, drawn by its ancient allure. Their attention is captivated by the single-story monastery building, the two-story bell tower that has stood for over seven centuries, a quaint courtyard with monks’ cells, and modern utility structures.
The monastery remains active today. There have been times when it was home to just a solitary inhabitant, but since 2002, five individuals—four monks and one novice—have made it their permanent residence. Thanks to their presence, the monastery is alive with prayers and continuous worship services.
According to archaeologists, the first structure of this complex was erected at the turn of the 9th to 10th centuries, attributed to Christopher and Theodore, disciples of the archimandrite Tao-Klardjeti. The primary building material was roughly hewn stone, devoid of any embellishments.
Several centuries later, around the 14th century, another building—a chapel with a bell tower—was added to complete the architectural ensemble of the monastery.
The subsequent history of the Green Monastery is marked by tragic events. In the 16th century, the monastery was attacked by Shah Tahmasp. The religious site was looted, and all services conducted within its walls ceased. It is said that the invading warrior’s forces tortured and killed the monks of Saint George’s Monastery. In total, approximately 300 clergymen lost their lives at the hands of the invaders. Even today, bones and remains of the slain are discovered on the grounds, and the monks collect these relics, placing them in coffins, performing final rites, and giving them a proper burial.
Following these sorrowful events, the monastery fell into neglect for many years. From 1578 until the 17th century, the lands of Borjomi and the Samtskhe region were under Turkish control. Despite the end of their dominance, restoration of the complex did not commence until 1978. The restoration efforts spanned several years, culminating in their completion in 2002.
The monastery’s architecture exemplifies a typical three-nave basilica of its time, characterized by small semicircular windows. The interior is modest and restrained, adorned with modern frescoes. Inside, one can find wooden chairs with folding seats (staseidia) designed for the monks.
A short distance away stands the bell tower, featuring an arch adorned with a relief depicting Saint George’s battle against evil. This structure consists of two levels: the first houses a prayer room, while the second boasts a richly decorated gazebo.
Visitors are also treated to ancient masonry uncovered during the restoration process, accompanied by a commemorative cross that rises nearby.
The monastery is renowned for its seven springs located behind the complex. Believers regard these springs as sources of holy water, and a local legend claims that drinking from all seven is necessary for healing—and that one should take some water home.
Make sure to visit the nearby Chitakhevi River. While the river itself may not be the main attraction, the brown stones lying at its bottom certainly are. One of these stones has been retrieved from the river and displayed in the church. Interestingly, these stones retain their color regardless of the season or water temperature. The monks consider this a miracle, as any paint typically fades over time due to direct sunlight or constant water flow. Local lore explains that the stones absorbed the blood of the unfortunate victims killed during the capture of the Green Monastery. When people first learned that these stones were stained with blood, they began to take them home, believing they brought luck and grace.
As Mtsvane Monastery is part of the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park, visitors may encounter wildlife during their visit. While bears are unlikely to be seen, deer sightings are quite possible.