Nestled in southern Georgia near the Armenian border, Gagi Fortress stands apart from the usual thoroughfares. It is believed to have been founded in the 11th century and served as the primary residence of Prince Varam Gageli during the reign of Queen Tamar. Known historically as Agdjakala, the fortress continued to exist into the 17th century, although today only its walls remain.
The fortress is perched on a prominent rock overlooking the Debed River valley, a location that likely attracted human attention since the Bronze Age. It is quite plausible that a settlement existed here during that time. Academic Berdznishvili once speculated that Gagi was the ancient city of Tsurtavi, where Saint Shushanika lived and died in the late 5th century. While Tsurtavi has since vanished without a trace, the Orthodox Encyclopedia suggests it was located somewhere near Gagi Fortress.
Following the year 978, the Debed River valley fell within the borders of the Armenian Kingdom of Tashir-Dzoraget, which was subordinate to the Kingdom of Ani. In 989, King Gagik I ascended to the throne. The Armenian historian Vardan Araveltsi claimed that it was King Gagik who constructed this fortress, which subsequently bore his name. If this assertion holds true, the fortress must have been built before Gagik’s death in 1020.
Vardan wrote: “…the famous fortress of Gag, built by King Gagik, where stood the glorious monastery of Saint Sargis, known throughout the world, with a cross and a church built and consecrated by the holy vardapet Mesrop and the Armenian translator, situated atop Gag and dominating the vast and boundless field.” This has often led to the conclusion that the monastery of Saint Sargis was located within the fortress, although it actually exists in a different location, closer to the Azerbaijani town of Gazakh.
In Georgian chronicles, the fortress appears in the context of King Bagrat IV’s war with the Ganja Sultan Fadlon (likely Fadl ibn Shavur). It is noted: “They presented to Bagrat the keys of Gagi, and the king of Abkhazia took Gagi.” Later, during the reign of King Giorgi, the fortress was captured by Ivane Bagvashi (“Once again, Ivane rebelled and cunningly tricked the defenders into surrendering Gagi”). This indicates that by that time, the Tashir-Dzoraget Kingdom had already lost its northern territories.
In 1124, King David the Builder reclaimed Gagi from unclear Muslim rulers. By the time of Queen Tamar, Gagi Fortress had become the main stronghold of the region of the same name, which encompassed lands surrounding the fortress and extended eastward to Shamkori. When Prince Zakaria Mkhargrdzeli assisted Tamar in her conflict with her husband, she entrusted him with Gagi Fortress and the surrounding area, marking the beginning of the Gageli dynasty. Zakaria participated in the Battle of Shamkori in 1195, after which it is claimed that the city of Shamkori also came under his control. His son Varam governed the region of Gagi following Tamar’s death.
In 1236, the Mongols invaded the South Caucasus and established a base in the city of Bard. From there, they began raids in all directions. Queen Rusudan fled to Kutaisi, and Varam Gageli accompanied her. However, when Avag Mkhargrdzeli went to negotiate with the Mongols, Varam followed suit. Thus, Gagi Fortress became the first Georgian stronghold to acknowledge Mongol rule.
After this point, the fortress seemingly disappears from historical records until it reemerges around the 15th century under the name Agdjakala. Vakhushti Bagrationi writes: “In the year 1488 of Christ, 176 of the Georgian calendar, Jakub Shah sent his commander Khalil Beg. He came, began to build Kaoziani and the fortress of Agdjakala.” This suggests that in one of its earlier iterations, the fortress was constructed by the Sultan of the Ak-Koyunlu state, Jakub.
In 1522, Persian Shah Ismail “came to Agdjakala and began to construct it.” However, by 1523, King David destroyed the fortress.
By the early 17th century, the fortress was already in existence and likely in its current form. In 1612, a Persian garrison was stationed there. When King Luarsab attempted to assassinate Prince Giorgi Saakadze in Kodjori, Saakadze fled to the Aragvi eristavi and subsequently sought refuge in Agdjakala, leaving his family behind as he departed for Isfahan. Historian Platon Ioseliani notes that Saakadze was already in the territories of Persia while at Agdjakala, effectively having left the Kingdom of Kartli. This indicates that, at that time, the fortress had become a Persian border stronghold.
In 1722, the Ganja Khan launched a raid on Shulaveri and subsequently retreated to Agdjakala. The king sent a detachment led by Prince Vakhushti against him, but the prince found himself unable to storm the fortress.
It is plausible that the modern structure of the fortress was constructed by Shah Tamaz around the 1540s, and from that point onward, it remained a Persian fortress permanently. This could explain the absence of any remnants of a church within its walls.
The “Dictionary of the Russian Empire” from 1863 asserts that King Giorgi XII resided in the fortress and that it was damaged by an earthquake in 1827.
Today, amidst the cultivated fields near the Azerbaijani villages of Kushchi and Agamedli, a long, gentle rock formation stretches for 400 meters. At its western end lies the fortress, shaped like an ellipse, measuring 100 meters in length and approximately 50 meters in width. The fortress’s elliptical form extends from east to west, or perhaps even from southeast to northwest, with the entrance located on the southern side. It is possible that a city once thrived atop the entire rock, but no evidence remains apart from scattered, tiny fragments of pottery.
Numerous semi-circular projections line the fortress walls, which from a distance resemble towers but are, in fact, buttresses. Everything about this construction suggests that the builders were familiar with firearms. The gates are situated on the southern side, where it appears there were once two gate towers, and a path carved into the rock zigzagged through the first set of gates before leading to the second, complete with towers. Notably, the fortress is not constructed from pebbles, as was common in late medieval Georgia; instead, it is faced with substantial stone blocks and smaller stone infill. The facing includes sections made from greenish stone and brick, employing techniques reminiscent of those used in the construction of Shamkori Fortress.
The fortress has been well-preserved, yet there is little to captivate visitors for long. Its greatest value likely lies in the breathtaking vistas it offers. From the fortress, one can gaze upon the entire Debed plain, the height of 648, where battles were fought in December 1918, the Armenian mountains, and in April, the fields of poppies.
Finding Gagi Fortress is not particularly difficult, but reaching it can be a challenge. If traveling by car or bus, you should head to Shulaveri and stop at the large intersection at its exit, where there is a market and a gas station. Turning left there, you’ll pass through the village of Araplo, cross the Debed River via a bridge, and the fortress will soon come into view after the bridge.
If you do not have a car, you will need to walk 5 kilometers, as hitchhiking in Azerbaijani enclaves is virtually nonexistent. However, if you enjoy such walks, you can continue another 7 kilometers east to the village of Tekali, home to the descendants of the Qizilbash.
Coordinates: 41°20’11″N 44°53’2″E