Gremi Fortress stands as one of Georgia’s most significant historical monuments, currently awaiting inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List. This architectural complex encompasses a fortress and the Church of the Archangels, representing the remnants of the once-thriving city of Gremi, which flourished in the 16th century. Gremi is arguably the second most famous fortress in Georgia, following Ananuri, and it rightfully serves as a symbol of the Kakheti region. Located 175 kilometers from the capital city of Tbilisi, the fortress lies between the towns of Telavi and Kvareli, at the heart of Georgia’s renowned wine country.
Visiting Gremi offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the spirit of medieval Kakheti, a region that fiercely resisted its belligerent Muslim neighbors. Explore the small rooms of the surviving tower, once part of the palace of Kakhetian rulers, and ascend its stairs to reach the observation deck. From the narrow arrow slits, you can admire the breathtaking beauty of the Alazani Valley and feel the passage of time.
Historians believe that the citadel was constructed in the 16th century. The first extensive excavations at this site took place over 28 years, from 1939 to 1967. Historical chronicles indicate that Gremi housed a royal residence, the Church of the Archangels, and a bustling commercial sector. The settlement covered an area of 40 hectares and served as the capital of Kakheti from the 16th to the 17th centuries.
Gremi was devastated during a military campaign led by the Persian Shah Abbas I the Great in 1615. The Shah opted not to destroy Christian churches, which is why the Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel survived, while the rest of the city was obliterated. Following the attack, Gremi was unable to regain its former glory, and the capital was soon relocated to another city in Kakheti—Telavi.
During its peak, Gremi was home to a significant Armenian population. Historical documents reveal that, in addition to the Church of the Archangels, the city once boasted several other temples that have not survived. Ongoing research continues to uncover remnants of residential areas, commercial zones, and baths.
The Gremi Fortress and the church are situated atop a hill, surrounded by the remnants of fortification walls, towers, and embrasures. The complex features a three-story palace with a wine cellar and the Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel. The royal residence is a three-story tower-palace with a hexagonal bell tower. The first floor of the tower now houses a museum. While the exhibition may not be particularly impressive, it is worth visiting just to ascend the palace tower. Additionally, visitors can view an astonishingly well-preserved medieval castle latrine, a rarity for the South Caucasus. The tower also contains a secret underground passage—a tunnel leading to the road.
The palace has been fully restored and can be explored independently or as part of a guided tour. Today, Gremi is home to an active monastery, meaning some areas are closed to visitors.
For guests, a small museum and a souvenir shop are available within the fortress. The museum showcases artifacts discovered during excavations, including everyday items and weaponry.
Constructed in 1565 under the orders of King Levan of Kakheti, the church houses his tomb (located to the right of the entrance). A monastery was also established at this time. This large cross-domed church is built of brick and still contains surviving 16th-century frescoes. Unfortunately, many of these were damaged during the destruction of Gremi in 1615, with the Persians obliterating all faces and stabbing at the frescoes with spears in areas they could not reach. Interestingly, one fresco depicts King Levan himself holding a model of the church. During this period, church decoration was in decline; if you look closely, you will notice that the images are not very refined, and the ornamental designs were applied rather carelessly. In addition to the church building, the bell tower remains intact, displaying a cannon and other artifacts.
The church also contains the tomb of King Levan, although it was customary for all rulers to be buried in Alaverdi. Historians explain this by noting that Levan and his wife, Tinatin (who were married in Gremi), eventually divorced, and Tinatin was buried in the monastery she founded in New Shuamta. The Church of the Archangels continues to function today, as does the monastery, which has been revitalized after a long hiatus. The monastery operated until the 1940s, when communists expelled the two Russian monks living there, one of whom, according to legend, was thrown off a cliff. Services at the church resumed in 1989, and the monastery was reestablished in 1999. Every year on April 28, the community celebrates its patronal feast day—Gremkalakoba.
While Georgia boasts many earlier temples and monuments of religious and cultural significance, the Church of the Archangels stands out for both its beauty and importance to the Christian faith. For the people of Kakheti, it is a source of pride and a beloved, revered place of worship.
Gremi was divided into four distinct quarters, with the second being the noble quarter, where kings and other aristocrats built their palaces. This area featured darbazis (a traditional Georgian style of housing combining living and utility spaces), baths, fountains, and an entertainment pavilion. Interestingly, Gremi also had a water supply system with ceramic pipes.
The third quarter, the craftsman’s district, was the largest and most densely populated. It was separated from the noble quarter by a ridge of rocks. This area included a caravanserai, where merchants would stop, as well as baths and market stalls. Notably, all these structures were built in the Persian style. A church stood here as well, with an inscription above the entrance in three languages, including Persian. The inscription tells of a man named Matarzi, who referred to himself as a great sinner, stating that he built this church and donated a mill, shops, and a vineyard to it for the salvation of his soul.
The fourth quarter is the fortress itself, sometimes referred to as the “Gremi Narikala.” The fortress rose on the Sameba Ridge, where there used to be a church, darbazis, and various defensive and utility structures.
Today, the remnants of this once grand and bustling city consist, apart from the fortress walls and the church, of a museum housed in the tower, as well as a small church and the reconstructed ancient baths, which were restored in 2012.
Gremi Castle is located in the village of the same name, just 16 kilometers from Kvareli. You can reach Gremi from Kvareli or Telavi by marshrutka (a shared minibus) or by hitchhiking along the route connecting these two towns. If you’re traveling independently from Tbilisi, head to the Ortachala bus station and board a marshrutka heading to Telavi. These minibuses depart every half hour, and the distance from the capital to Gremi is about 150 kilometers.
For those coming from Batumi, the first step is to get to Tbilisi, as there are no direct public transport options to Gremi.
Gremi Castle is open daily from 11:00 AM to 6:00 PM, except on Mondays. Admission to the castle grounds is free, while entry to the museum costs 3 lari (about $1.20).
Gremi Castle is relatively small, and the surrounding restored area can be explored in a short amount of time. We recommend combining your visit to Gremi with trips to other fascinating sites in Kakheti, such as Sighnaghi, Bodbe, and Alaverdi.
Regarding infrastructure, there are limited amenities directly at the castle; apart from parking and a few stalls selling souvenirs, you won’t find much else. A wine shop operates during the tourist season, but for more substantial dining options, you’ll need to travel to Telavi or Kvareli, where you can find decent cafes, hotels, and restaurants.