Jumati Monastery, Ozurgeti

Jumati Monastery (ჯუმათი), formally known as the Monastery of Archangels Michael and Gabriel, is a quaint sanctuary perched atop one of the peaks of the Chokhatauri Ridge, slightly north of the city of Ozurgeti. This historic site falls under the jurisdiction of the Shemokmedi Diocese, though it once served as the center of the Jumati Diocese. The monastery is primarily celebrated for its breathtaking vistas of the Guria and Colchis plains.

The origins of Jumati Monastery remain shrouded in mystery; the precise details of its founder, the date of establishment, and its original purpose are lost to history. The main church dedicated to the Archangels is believed to have been constructed in the 12th or 13th century, although its architectural design does not distinctly reflect that era. In the early 14th century, the church was adorned with frescoes, known as “Paleologan frescoes,” but unfortunately, their preservation is poor compared to those found in the Ubisi Monastery.

In the 15th century, as Western Georgia distanced itself from Eastern Georgia, Guria sought to establish its autonomy from Imereti. Amid these events, the region of Guria refused to be governed by the Kutaisi Diocese, leading to the formation of the Jumati Diocese. Consequently, the monastery became the episcopal residence, with the bishop also maintaining a winter residence in the village of Bogili below.

Around the same time, a bell tower was constructed, and in the 18th century, a local prince restored the church. However, in 1833, the Russian administration dissolved the Jumati Diocese for administrative convenience. The monastery underwent renovations in 1846, during which some alterations were made, including the addition of the southern chapel that still exists today. By 1904, a structure resembling a bell tower was added to the western wall of the church.

Throughout the Soviet era, valuable items from the church were confiscated, yet the monastery remained open, albeit with only one resident, Hieromonk Ioann, who passed away in 1959. After falling into disrepair, the monastery was consecrated again on November 21, 1990. Today, the life of the monastery is sustained by five monks and seven novices, who strive to preserve this ancient monument without state assistance.

The main monastery church, dating from the 15th to 16th centuries, was once considered a true gem, adorned with intricately carved stone slabs and exquisite frescoes that graced its walls and vaults. The sound of its bell tower resonated for hundreds of kilometers. Historically, Jumati Monastery was renowned for two engraved icons of Archangels Michael and Gabriel, crafted around the 12th century and embellished with enamel medallions (minankari). In the mid-19th century, these icons were smuggled to Russia and sold in secret. While the icons themselves vanished, the enamel medallions have since circulated through collections and museums worldwide, with nine medallions from Gabriel’s icon finding their way to the Metropolitan Museum in New York and one to the Louvre. Four medallions from Michael’s icon returned to Georgia in 1923.

Today, if you navigate the winding serpentine roads to reach the mountain’s summit, you will be greeted by a church with a bell tower (visible from the west). As you circle the building to the right, you will arrive at the flat peak of the mountain, where residential structures can be seen to your right and the bell tower to your immediate left. This bell tower also serves as the entrance; passing beneath it reveals the church of Michael and Gabriel from the southern side. The church itself is a relatively simple hall structure, featuring a chapel to the south and a bell tower to the west.

The true value of this site lies in its panoramic views. Walking around the church allows you to see the entirety of the Guria plain and, in the distance, the Colchis plain stretching toward the horizon. On clear days, Lake Paleostomi, as well as the coastal cities of Poti and Kobuleti, can be seen.

The interior of the church, once adorned with frescoes, has only fragmentary remnants of its former glory.

Accessing the monastery can be quite challenging. First, you must reach the village of Jumati, which is serviced by a minibus from Ozurgeti, operating only once a day at 1:30 PM, and may be unexpectedly canceled. In the village, there are some signs pointing to the monastery, providing a rough direction. However, from the village, you will need to trek 3 to 4 kilometers uphill along the serpentine road.

The descent from the monastery to the Ozurgeti-Lanchkhuti highway takes about an hour and a half, while the ascent can take two hours or more, especially in the summer heat.

Coordinates: 42°1’46″N 41°59’6″E