Shemokmedi Monastery

Shemokmedi (შემოქმედი) is an ancient monastery located on the eastern edge of Ozurgeti, with its cathedral serving as the seat of the Shemokmedi Diocese. Perched on a high mountain, it boasts a strategic and picturesque position. It is believed that the monastery was founded either in the 12th or 15th century as the residence of the bishop, who subsequently became the Shemokmedi Bishop (Shmokmedeli). Over time, it also became the burial site for the princes of Guria. Notably, in 1564, Rostom Gurieli was interred here—he was the prominent figure who, alongside King Bagrat III of Imereti, conquered Samtskhe, annexed Adjara and Chaneti to Guria, battled the Turks, and became a well-known historical figure in the Gurieli lineage.

In 1578, when the Turks occupied the principality of Samtskhe, the Gurieli princes transported the 9th-century icon of the “Transfiguration” from the monastery of Zarzma and constructed a dedicated domed church for the Transfiguration within the monastery.

During the 19th century, Georgian monasteries faced significant challenges, but Shemokmedi managed to stand out. It served as a headquarters for the Gurian rebels during the uprising of 1819-1820. In historical accounts from that time, it is referred to as the castle of Kaihosro Abashidze.

Today, access to the monastery is through a cemetery, leading to a gate tower with a bell tower, which opens onto a small plaza. Here, visitors can see the large church with a gabled roof, behind which lies another domed church. The first church is almost always open, while the second may not be.

The main church, known as the Savior Cathedral (Matskhovris), is a three-nave basilica supported by three pairs (effectively two) of columns. On the western façade of the cathedral, there is a plaque inscribed in the ancient Asomtavruli script. When translated into modern script, it reads: “რისტე ყოვლად ძლიერო შეიწყალე აფხაზეთის კათალიკოზი ბატონი მაქსიმე ამინ.” This inscription references Maxime I, the Catholicos of the Western Georgian Church from 1639 to 1656, a notable figure who made three pilgrimages to Jerusalem and engaged with Russian ambassadors and Catholic missionaries.

The frescoes within Shemokmedi are vibrant, captivating, and far from conventional. It is claimed that one of the frescoes depicts a Gurian prince from the early 17th century, suggesting that the artworks date back to that period.

The monastery is situated on a hill overlooking the Bzhuzhi River, approximately five kilometers east of the center of Ozurgeti. Several asphalt roads lead to it, allowing for various routes to choose from. A winding, steep but paved road leads from the bridge over the Bzhuzhi River to the monastery, with a parking area located slightly below the monastery.

Visitors can reach Shemokmedi by car or on foot. Its coordinates are: 41°54’26″N 42°3’45″E.