Old City, Kutaisi

The ancient city of Kutaisi, Georgia’s second-largest urban center and the capital of the historical region of Imereti in the country’s west, boasts a remarkable history spanning over 3,500 years. In antiquity, it served as the fabled capital of the Colchian Kingdom, the land to which the Argonauts journeyed in search of the Golden Fleece. Throughout every era, Kutaisi has played a pivotal role in Georgia’s political and economic life. Even today, it stands as one of the country’s major cities. In 2012, the Parliament of Georgia was officially relocated to Kutaisi, earning the city the honorary title of the nation’s parliamentary capital.

Nestled along the winding banks of the Rioni River, the city can be divided into two distinct sections: the Old Town lies on the river’s right bank, while the more modern part stretches across the left. The Old Town of Kutaisi, with its labyrinth of narrow lanes and charming historical buildings, has undergone a sweeping renovation in recent years, breathing new life into its timeworn streets and architectural heritage.

Though the historical core of Kutaisi is situated on the right bank of the Rioni, the city’s crowning architectural gem—the Bagrati Cathedral—graces a hilltop on the opposite shore, rising proudly over the landscape.

Old Kutaisi is rich in landmarks, scenic spots, and a wealth of cultural treasures waiting to be discovered.

At the heart of Old Kutaisi lies the Royal Quarter, a compact and picturesque ensemble of 38 buildings and six cobblestone streets dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. The area, with its graceful buildings and impeccably kept streets, exudes a distinct charm that draws comparisons with quaint European towns. The entrance to the quarter is marked by an elegant archway inscribed with the words “Mon Plaisir,” located in the alley between Ninozminda and Tsisperi Kantselebi streets.

Inside the Royal Quarter, visitors find a delightful array of cozy cafés, inviting restaurants, and historical buildings that captivate with their architecture. Artistic graffiti, whimsical sculptures, and commemorative monuments lend the district a unique, creative atmosphere.

Among the prominent figures honored here is a monument to the Russian poet and futurist Vladimir Mayakovsky, situated in front of Gymnasium No. 1, where he studied between 1902 and 1906. Born in the village of Baghdati, just 25 kilometers from Kutaisi, Mayakovsky’s father worked as a forester in the area. The family home has since been converted into a museum dedicated to the poet’s life and legacy.

Nearby stands a monument to Ekvtime Takaishvili, the eminent Georgian historian, folklorist, and literary scholar who dedicated his life to preserving Georgia’s cultural heritage. Across from the gymnasium, the M. Balanchivadze Opera and Ballet Theatre impresses with its stately façade and the graceful statues adorning its rooftop.

A short walk from the Royal Quarter leads to Kutaisi City Park, a small but charming green space en route to David the Builder Square—the city’s central plaza. This park is a beloved destination for both residents and visitors, offering tranquility beneath shady trees and beside gurgling fountains. Statues throughout the park pay homage to renowned figures such as poet Akaki Tsereteli, composer Zakaria Paliashvili, and —Nina, Tamara, Zinaida, and Mariam—whose renditions of urban romances are cherished in Georgia. One particularly poignant monument commemorates the victims of the April 9, 1989 tragedy in Tbilisi, when peaceful protesters were violently dispersed by armed forces.

David the Builder Square (also known as Agmashenebeli Square) stands as the pulsating heart of modern Kutaisi. One of its most striking features is the Colchis Fountain, unveiled in 2011 and rapidly becoming a symbol of the city. Circular in form and tiered in five cascading levels, the fountain is adorned with large-scale replicas of ancient golden figurines unearthed during excavations of the Colchian era. At night, the fountain comes alive with vibrant lighting, as does the nearby Lado Meskhishvili Drama Theatre on the square’s northern flank, creating a captivating nocturnal panorama.

Four bridges connect the two halves of Kutaisi across the Rioni River: the White Bridge, the Red Bridge, the Rustaveli vehicular bridge, and the Chain Bridge further to the north. These bridges not only serve a practical purpose but also offer stunning vantage points for taking in the city’s scenery. From their spans, one can admire the foaming, swift-moving Rioni waters, the iconic white rocks, the majestic Bagrati Cathedral perched on the horizon, and the colorful residential quarters hugging the high western bank—rows of one- and two-story homes stacked steeply like swallows’ nests.

Just steps from the White Bridge lies the lower station of Kutaisi’s cable car. A quick three-minute ride lifts passengers over the river to Gabaashvili Park atop the opposite hill. Along the way, the gondola offers sweeping views of the city, the river, and the distant mountains rising like sentinels in the background.

A short stroll from the Royal Quarter, directly along the Rioni River, stands the Okros Chardakhi Museum—”The Golden Tent”—which once served as the royal residence of the Imeretian kings. Though the original grand palace no longer remains, the structure that endures is modest in appearance yet rich in history. Within its walls, the museum houses a collection of artifacts once belonging to the royal Bagrationi dynasty.

Another notable cultural landmark is the Kutaisi Historical Museum, located near David the Builder Square in a stately two-story building at the intersection of Tsereteli and Pushkin streets. Its extensive collection includes ethnographic exhibits, coins, manuscripts, archaeological discoveries, and relics from the Colchian Kingdom, offering a vivid window into Georgia’s distant past.

Along Paliashvili Lane, two more captivating institutions await: the Museum of Georgian Sport and the Museum of Georgian Military History—both providing deep dives into the country’s national identity and collective memory.

To truly experience Kutaisi, one must wander its streets on foot. This is the most intimate way to absorb the spirit of the city and connect with its ambiance. Some of the most prominent thoroughfares in Old Kutaisi include Tsereteli Street, leading from the heart of the city toward the Kutaisi–Tbilisi highway; Queen Tamar Street, which links the center to the railway station; Newport Street, a quiet and aristocratic lane ideal for leisurely walks; and bustling Pushkin Street, lined with hotels, cafés, restaurants, and shops—buzzing with life and commerce.