Nekresi Monastery

Perched atop a serene hillside overlooking the Alazani Valley, just seven kilometers from the regional center of Kvareli, lies the Nekresi Monastic Complex—a gem of Georgian religious heritage. In ancient times, nestled at the foot of this mountain stood the thriving city of Nekresi. But it was in the 6th century that the site gained sacred significance, when one of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers, Abibos of Nekresi, established a monastery upon the hill that still bears his name.

What makes Nekresi truly exceptional is its location on the relatively untouched eastern side of the valley, where few constructions ever stood, and many of those that did were later destroyed in invasions by Dagestani tribes. Today, the monastery crowns the mountain in solitary grandeur, though long ago, a city once sprawled beneath it. All that remains now is the stone foundation of a once-majestic Zoroastrian temple.

The origins of Nekresi trace back to a time when the plain below the mountain was home to an ancient urban center. It was in the 6th century that the monk Abibos—also known as Aviv or Abibos of Nekresi—founded the monastic settlement nearby. The region at that time was under Persian control, and the rise of monasticism was met with hostility. Tensions with the local Zoroastrian authorities culminated in the arrest and execution of Abibos. He was taken to Mtskheta, where he was martyred. For this reason, the founder of the Nekresi Monastery is not buried at the site itself, but instead lies in the revered grounds of Samtavro Church in Mtskheta.

The buildings that visitors encounter today date from a later era—post-8th century—when the First Kingdom of Kakheti emerged as a distinct and independent realm.

Centuries passed in quiet obscurity until the dawn of the Second Kingdom of Kakheti, heralding the golden age of the region. It was during the reign of King Levan that many of Kakheti’s churches were adorned with vibrant frescoes. Levan himself commissioned the decoration of the main church at Nekresi. One such fresco, located on the southern wall, vividly depicts the monarch, his first wife, and their son Alexander. Given the identifiable features of the queen and prince, art historians are confident in dating this work to between 1527 and 1529.

In 1616, the Persian army under Shah Abbas invaded the region. The extent of damage inflicted upon Nekresi Monastery during this period remains uncertain. However, what is well-documented are the repeated incursions by Dagestani raiders in later years. A local legend recounts how the monks once protected the monastery by placing pigs—or perhaps even pig carcasses—around its perimeter. The Muslim invaders, deterred by religious taboo, refrained from entering. This act of clever defense is commemorated in a unique local tradition: on feast days, only pork is used for celebratory barbecues.

The Nekresi Monastery comprises several significant structures. The heart of the complex is the Church of the Blessed Virgin, dating to the 7th century. However, the site’s oldest monument—and arguably the oldest Christian edifice in all of Georgia—is a three-nave basilica from the 4th century. Believed to have been built during the reign of King Trdat, son of King Mirian, this basilica stands on a stone foundation that may have also served as a crypt. While its exact construction date is unofficial, it rivals Bolnisi Sioni in age, which is formally recognized as Georgia’s oldest Christian church.

Near the basilica stands a square tower—likely constructed in the 15th century—adjoined on its southern side by a complex economic structure once part of the bishop’s palace. Within this annex lies a spacious refectory, a traditional stone wine press (and a second, wooden one), and a storage chamber for wine jars, known as a marani.

The monastery complex includes several other historic churches built at different times. The Church of the Blessed Virgin, itself shaped as a basilica, is particularly valued for its 16th-century frescoes and wall inscriptions. Additional highlights include a 9th-century domed church, a 16th-century bishop’s residence, and a marani—all testaments to Georgia’s spiritual and architectural legacy.

In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, archaeological excavations led by Levan Chilashvili confirmed that the Georgian script may have predated the country’s adoption of Christianity. Today, the monastery is undergoing an active phase of restoration. All four churches within the complex are being carefully renovated, and the grounds are being thoughtfully landscaped.

From this peaceful perch, visitors are treated to panoramic views of the Alazani Valley. A specially constructed observation deck now features a mounted binocular viewer. Benches dot the area, offering restful corners where one can sit in tranquil reflection. A small shop on the premises offers candles and religious books for those wishing to carry a piece of the monastery’s serenity with them.

On the way back from the monastery, adventurous visitors can make their way through the remnants of an old collective farm and reach a field that still holds the foundation of the ancient Zoroastrian temple—clearly visible from above. Though no defensive walls survive, subtle undulations in the terrain hint at the long-forgotten city of Nekresi. Numerous ceramic artifacts and even bronze axes have been uncovered here, suggesting the area’s habitation stretches far back into pre-Christian antiquity.

For casual visitors, a glimpse from the observation point may suffice. But for archaeology enthusiasts, it’s worth tracing a path from that very platform down to the site itself. In recent years, vineyards have been planted in the surrounding fields, which may make access more challenging, but also add a timeless beauty to the landscape.

To reach Nekresi, take public transportation from Telavi to Kvareli. From Kvareli, it’s a 7-kilometer journey towards the village of Gremi—either by hitchhiking or on foot—until you see the sign pointing to Nekresi. The road leads to the monastery’s reception area. From there, a steep ascent begins, which can be navigated on foot or aboard a special shuttle bus.