Samegrelo, also known as Mingrelia, is a storied region in western Georgia, with Zugdidi as its capital. Home to around 320,000 inhabitants, the region is predominantly populated by the Mingrelians—a distinct sub-ethnic group with their own ancient language and unique cultural identity. Samegrelo embraces a stretch of Georgia’s Black Sea coastline and is nourished by several major rivers, including the Enguri, Tskhenistskali, Rioni, and Khobi.
Famed for its rich and distinctive cuisine, Samegrelo is also home to many cultural and natural treasures. Among its most notable landmarks is the ancient city of Archaeopolis, once the capital of the fabled Kingdom of Colchis. The remnants of this legendary stronghold now lie in the village of Nokalakevi, not far from Senaki.
Samegrelo often feels like a country within a country. Just as Georgia can appear linguistically secluded from the broader world, Samegrelo is likewise separated from the rest of Georgia by the Mingrelian language. This is a land unto itself—a self-contained civilization with a rhythm and way of life not easily penetrated by outsiders, especially those unfamiliar with its native tongue. For administrative convenience, the region has recently been grouped together with Svaneti, though historically and culturally, the two have little in common.
In ancient times, the territory of Samegrelo was part of the Kingdom of Colchis and later became a Byzantine province. By the 15th century, Mingrelia had emerged as an independent principality, further cementing its unique identity.
While Samegrelo may not boast a vast array of striking, iconic landmarks, what it does offer is no less valuable: its untouched nature. The true essence of this region is best experienced on foot, by traversing its wild and pristine mountains. Its natural beauty is its most treasured asset.
Among the historical sites, the crown jewel is undoubtedly Nokalakevi–Archaeopolis, near Senaki. This was once the capital of Byzantine Lazica, and perhaps even of ancient Colchis itself. The remains of the city walls and numerous structures still stand, offering a fascinating glimpse into the region’s illustrious past.
Scattered throughout Samegrelo are about a dozen fortresses and castles in varying states of preservation. The Tsalendjikha district, in particular, boasts the highest concentration of these ancient strongholds. The Rukhi Fortress near Zugdidi is especially notable. At the mouth of the Enguri River, where it meets the sea, lies the ancient fortress of Anaklia—believed to have been built either by the Greeks or by even earlier civilizations. Modest in size and austere in appearance, Anaklia nonetheless holds a certain mystique. Of the better-preserved sites, the Chakvinji Fortress on the Chanistskali River is particularly impressive, though reaching it is not an easy task. Near Senaki lies the small Shekhepi Fortress, where King Levan of Imereti is said to have died in captivity.
Religious architecture is less abundant in the region, but what exists is rich in historical and spiritual significance. The most revered is the Chkondidi Monastery in Martvili, whose origins date back to the 10th century. Another once-renowned site is the Assumption Monastery in Khobi, famed in earlier centuries for its relics. In Tsalendjikha, visitors can find the Church of the Savior, dating from the 12th to 14th centuries and adorned with remarkable frescoes. In the village of Tsaishi in the Zugdidi district stands the Assumption Cathedral, believed to have been constructed around the 13th century. It is clearly visible from the highway leading to Zugdidi. Meanwhile, the Cathedral of the Blachernae Virgin Mary, built in the 19th century in Zugdidi, is home to many cherished relics and is well-known throughout Georgia and beyond. Slightly less famous, but equally picturesque, is the small Church of the Assumption in the village of Kortsheli, north of Zugdidi, from where stunning vistas stretch across all of Samegrelo, right to the sea.
Among the many regional culinary traditions of Georgia, Mingrelian cuisine stands out as perhaps the most distinctive and memorable. In Tbilisi, you’ll find no restaurants dedicated solely to Imeretian, Kakhetian, or Gurian fare—but Mingrelian establishments abound. The defining hallmark of Mingrelian food is its spiciness. It was here, after all, that the fiery condiment adjika was born.
The roots of this culinary boldness lie in the land itself. Mingrelia is a region of humid subtropics, where palms grow on what were once swamplands. In antiquity, the climate was even warmer—some believe it may have resembled a true tropical zone. For centuries, malaria plagued the region, and the liberal use of hot peppers in food is thought to have developed as a natural countermeasure.
The most iconic dishes of Mingrelian cuisine include the rich and indulgent Mingrelian khachapuri (a cheese-filled bread generously topped with additional cheese), the cornmeal porridge known as ghomi, and the hearty nut-laden version of kharcho (a spicy meat soup), often referred to as “kharcho with walnuts.” Other staples are elargi—a stretchy, cheesy cousin of ghomi—and the beloved satsivi, a thick sauce of ground walnuts and spices typically served with poultry. Although khinkali (juicy dumplings) aren’t traditionally Mingrelian, you’ll find them here too—sometimes prepared with an especially devilish level of heat.
Mingrelian culture is deeply rooted in respect for elders, strong family values, heartfelt hospitality, and time-honored wedding customs. Within the familial structure, the man traditionally holds the highest standing. He is expected to embody wisdom and life experience, remain approachable and fair-minded, yet unwavering in upholding his principles. His words are chosen carefully, favoring clarity and brevity. Women are accorded genuine respect, with a strong cultural emphasis on the protection and care of mothers, sisters, and life partners. Mingrelians have long been admired for their work ethic, completing every responsibility with persistence and care.
The legendary Georgian hospitality is vividly alive in Mingrelian homes. Guests are not only graciously received but are treated to the very best the household has to offer. Whether it’s travelers passing through or invited company, they are warmly fed, given drink, and provided shelter. It is customary to engage in conversation about the visitor’s journey and to exchange stories over generous meals, offering insight into daily Mingrelian life.
Weddings, too, reflect this region’s deep-rooted customs. In families with multiple sons, tradition dictates that marriages occur in order of age; a younger brother cannot wed until his elder sibling is married. Wedding celebrations are first held separately by the bride and groom’s families. It is only on the following day that the bride makes her way to her new home, where she is joyfully received amidst a shower of coins—a gesture symbolizing joy, fortune, and a prosperous future.
Martvili Canyon is a cherished natural wonder that draws countless visitors, particularly during the warmer months. Towering cliffs wind gracefully around the crystal-clear Abasha River, which cascades into enchanting waterfalls at several junctures. Adventurous travelers can take to the river by raft, offering an exhilarating ride and unparalleled views of Samegrelo’s breathtaking landscapes.
The Dadiani Palace, once the noble residence of the ruling Mingrelian princes, captivates with its stately design and grandeur. Today, this architectural jewel stands in the heart of Zugdidi, transformed into a museum that houses an extraordinary array of historic relics and personal effects. Among them are artifacts connected to Napoleon Bonaparte, gifted through dynastic ties when a Mingrelian princess wed his nephew. Visitors are invited to stroll through the immaculately landscaped gardens, complete with vibrant flower arrangements, graceful sculptures, peaceful fountains, and shaded walkways that lend a sense of timeless elegance.
The Zugdidi Botanical Garden, sprawling over 26 hectares, offers a lush escape into nature with a rare collection of trees and shrubs from around the world. Originally part of the grand Dadiani estate, this garden began as a passion project to cultivate foreign flora. It now boasts over 500 species, with about 80 deemed exotic—ranging from towering sequoias and Himalayan cedars to an array of magnolias, oaks, and tropical varieties sourced from India, Japan, the Mediterranean, and the Americas.
In the village of Nokalakevi, the ancient Archaeopolis Fortress stands as a well-preserved monument to Georgia’s storied past. According to legend, this site once played a role in the Argonauts’ quest for the Golden Fleece. Guarded by formidable stone walls, the city endured through centuries of change. Within the ruins, the Church of the Forty Sebastian Martyrs—built during early Christianity—still retains traces of medieval frescoes, offering a glimpse into the region’s spiritual heritage.
Tucked away in the mountains, Tobavarchkhili Lake is a pristine alpine gem situated over 2,600 meters above sea level. Surrounded by jagged peaks, the lake mirrors the grandeur of its setting, especially under clear skies when its waters gleam a brilliant sapphire blue. Reaching the lake is a rewarding yet demanding endeavor. From the village of Mukhuri, travelers journey across rugged terrain in off-road vehicles before tackling a 1.5-kilometer trail from the Gvamarda tract—either on foot or horseback, with horses available for rent from locals. Given the challenging nature of the route, exploring Tobavarchkhili is best done as part of a guided group tour.
Kolkheti National Park and Lake Paliastomi lie in the Kolkheti lowlands, a region shaped over millennia by the wandering paths of the Rioni River and its tributaries. The area’s proximity to the Black Sea creates a humid microclimate, nurturing an ecosystem rich in biodiversity. The dense forests and wetlands serve as a haven for wildlife such as jackals, guinea pigs, wildfowl, and, on occasion, pelicans. Birdwatchers especially enjoy visiting during the off-season when migratory birds arrive—some of which are rarely seen elsewhere.
Visitors can fully experience the park’s natural splendor through organized boat tours. Boats, available for groups of 8 to 20, depart from the National Park Administration, where guests can register and reserve seats. Advance booking is recommended, especially for independent travelers seeking to explore the waterways and shores of Lake Paliastomi.
Not far from Zugdidi stands the Rukhi Fortress, once the strategic seat of the Dadiani Dukes. Though now uninhabited and blanketed in moss, the fortress remains imposing in its quiet majesty. With a history marked by fierce battles, particularly against Ottoman forces, Rukhi’s weathered towers and ramparts still echo the tales of valor. Located just 7 kilometers from Zugdidi, it’s an essential stop for those tracing the legacy of Samegrelo’s historic strongholds.
Finally, the seaside resort of Anaklia offers a surprising contrast. What was once a sleepy, crumbling village has undergone a stunning transformation into a vibrant destination. The town now features modern hotels and eye-catching contemporary architecture. Unlike many Black Sea resorts, Anaklia’s beaches are sandy, not pebbled. A 540-meter pedestrian bridge connects Anaklia to the neighboring coastal village of Ganmukhuri. Together, these locales provide an idyllic setting for swimming in the warm sea, relaxing on golden shores, and enjoying leisurely sun-filled days.