Nestled in the heart of Old Tbilisi lies one of Georgia’s most treasured sacred landmarks — the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, more widely known by its evocative, unofficial name: Anchiskhati Church. Dating back to the 6th century, this enduring monument of early Georgian Christianity derives its name from the revered Anchiskhati Icon — a remarkable Byzantine-style depiction of Christ. This sacred image, created in the encaustic tradition and adorned with a silver and gold repoussé frame crafted by the 12th-century master goldsmith Beka Opizari, once resided within the church for nearly two centuries. Today, it is housed in the Georgian Museum of Fine Arts. The icon is first mentioned during the reign of Queen Tamar, though it likely arrived at the church around the 17th century.
Throughout its long and turbulent history, Anchiskhati Church has been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times. During the Soviet era, the church was repurposed for secular use, first as a museum of handicrafts and later as an art studio. In contemporary times, Anchiskhati has regained its spiritual role and earned renown among visitors for its stirring performances of ancient Georgian liturgical chants. These hymns, sung by one of the country’s finest church choirs, create a transcendent experience for those attending services.
The church comes especially alive on September 21st, when it celebrates its principal feast day — the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. On this sacred occasion, the church resounds with music, prayer, and tradition. Interestingly, the same feast is observed by the nearby Metekhi Cathedral, encouraging pilgrims and tourists to visit both historic sites. Anchiskhati Church continues to hold daily liturgical services and sacred rites, maintaining its role as a living center of Georgian Orthodoxy.
Anchiskhati is not only the oldest church in Tbilisi but also the second oldest preserved church in all of Georgia, following the Bolnisi Sioni Cathedral. It was erected between 522 and 534 AD by Dachi of Iberia, son of King Vakhtang Gorgasali. After the fall of the Kingdom of Iberia at the hands of the Persians, and the death of Gorgasali, Dachi made Tbilisi the new capital and began fortifying the city, including the construction of this church in honor of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary.
From the 15th to 17th centuries, the basilica suffered numerous attacks due to ongoing conflicts with Persian and Ottoman forces, each time undergoing painstaking restoration. It was in 1675 that the church gained the name “Anchiskhati,” when the revered icon of the Savior was transferred from the monastery of Anchi in Tao-Klarjeti to the sanctuary in Tbilisi. This remarkable image, executed with wax-based pigments and encased in a majestic silver-gilt frame, miraculously survived Ottoman raids and remained in the church until 1920, after which it was moved to the state museum.
That same year, Catholicos Domenti commissioned a brick bell tower to be added to the church complex. In the 1870s, further modifications altered the church’s structure: a dome and vaulted ceiling were added, the layout was significantly transformed, and the walls were plastered and whitewashed. A bell tower with a tented dome was also appended to the western facade. Despite several attempts by Soviet authorities to demolish the church, it was preserved — thanks largely to the efforts of David Arsenishvili, who succeeded in converting the space into a museum of handicrafts and later into an artist workshop.
Between 1958 and 1964, a meticulous restoration was carried out under the watchful guidance of architect Givirdtsiteli. This effort restored the church’s 17th-century appearance, reviving its historical aesthetic. In 1989, Anchiskhati reopened its doors to worshippers, returning to its rightful spiritual role in Georgian life.
Architecturally, Anchiskhati Church is built in the form of a rectangle. Its entrance doors are adorned with a cross attributed to Saint Nino, the Enlightener of Georgia. On the church’s façade, a timeworn medallion bearing a stone-carved cross serves as a tangible symbol of its antiquity. Inside, the church features a traditional three-nave basilica design, with the interior space divided into three sections by slender columns. The horseshoe-shaped apses, characteristic of ancient church construction, underscore the basilica’s venerable heritage.
Originally constructed with yellow tuff and stone blocks, the church underwent significant repairs in the 20th century, during which brick was frequently used in the restoration. The entrances are located on three sides of the church, though today only the western door, facing Shavteli Street, remains open. These entryways are decorated with massive wooden doors, carved with traditional Georgian crosses and grapevine motifs.
Anchiskhati houses an array of historic icons, several of which have miraculously survived to the present day. The oldest among them is a magnificent altarpiece commissioned in 1683 by Catholicos Amilakhvari Nikoloz VI. While many of the church’s other icons date from the 19th century, they still reflect the enduring spirit of Georgian religious art. Within the church are also enshrined the relics of Saint Catholicos Eudemus I Diasamidze, who led the Georgian Orthodox Church from 1630 to 1638.
The church’s vaults and arches are adorned with 19th-century frescoes. Inside the dimly lit sanctuary, visitors often remark upon the mystical, almost ethereal atmosphere that seems to envelop them. The darkness within deepens the spiritual intimacy of the space. Among the best-preserved sections are the church’s eastern and western walls, while the northern wall remains the most damaged due to centuries of wear.
Anchiskhati Church is located on Ioane Shavteli Street, just a short walk from Baratashvili Avenue — a major thoroughfare with numerous bus stops. From there, head toward the bridge and take a right onto Shavteli Street. After walking about 50 to 100 meters, the church will appear.
Travelers coming from Sioni Cathedral in the city center can reach Anchiskhati by walking north along the namesake street toward Irakli Street. The route passes through Palace Square and the Patriarchate; a short turn onto Shavteli Street completes the journey, which takes about five minutes or 500 meters.
While the Freedom Square metro station (M1 line) is the nearest underground stop, it is still a considerable walk from the church. A more convenient option is to take one of the city’s many buses that stop at the “Baratashvili” bus station, serviced by routes 2, 25, 31, 37, 44, 46, 55, 59, and 137.
