Azeula Fortress in Kojori

Perched amidst the tranquil mountains just beyond the vibrant heart of Tbilisi lies the Azeula Fortress—also known as the Fortress of Kojori or the Fortress of Agharani. This ancient citadel is tucked away in the highlands, accessible by a direct city bus ride from the Georgian capital. Upon arrival in the peaceful village of Kojori, a leisurely stroll awaits you: first through its quiet, meandering streets, then along a forest path that leads to the foot of a hill. From there, a short but invigorating ascent brings you to what remains of the once-mighty stronghold.

The story of Azeula Fortress begins in the 8th–9th centuries. Historians believe it was originally constructed to oversee and protect key caravan routes running from Tbilisi to Trialeti and from Gardabani to Shida Kartli. In 1080, the Seljuk Turks seized the fortress, renaming it “Kyor Oghlu.” It then came under the control of Emir Faldun, remaining in his possession until 1118, when it was reclaimed by Georgia’s celebrated ruler, David IV Agmashenebeli—known to history as David the Builder.

Following his victory, David entrusted the fortress to Prince Ioane Orbeli, a prominent military leader and landholder in the Kvemo Kartli region. Ioane Orbeli would go on to become the founding patriarch of the noble Georgian house of Orbeliani. Yet, this lineage would later be marked by rebellion. In 1177, the Orbeli family rose against King George III—the father of the renowned Queen Tamar. The revolt was quelled, and once more, the fortress returned to the crown. Interestingly, Queen Tamar herself later made the fortress her residence. Toward the end of her life, in frail health, the queen is believed to have spent nearly six months within its protective walls.

The fortress’s history during the 14th and 15th centuries remains somewhat obscure. However, records show that by then it had passed into the hands of the Solagashvili family. Chronicles of the time began referring to the stronghold as Kodjris-Tsikhe—literally, “the Fortress of Kojori.” Near the citadel, a convent known as the Kabeni Monastery was established, whose ruins still linger nearby. The monastery’s church served as the final resting place of the Solagashvili lineage.

In the 17th century, the area saw renewed royal interest. King Rostom, who ascended the Georgian throne in 1633, commissioned the construction of a royal palace near the fortress. The palace saw further development under successive monarchs, with references to it appearing into the 18th century. Today, however, no trace of the once-proud palace remains. Even the faintest hint of its former presence has vanished, leaving behind questions and speculation. It is thought that the palace played a crucial role in the political life of the kingdom—perhaps as a venue where high-stakes decisions were made and destinies shaped. The reasons for its disappearance remain an enduring mystery.

Another fascinating chapter in the fortress’s long history unfolded during the 1921 Battle for Tbilisi, when Georgian forces clashed with the Red Army. The mountainous terrain gave the Georgians a tactical advantage, and on the day of the fiercest fighting, they managed to repel all enemy assaults, inflicting significant damage on the invaders.

What remains today of Kodjris-Tsikhe are its striking, monumental ruins. Some arches are still intact, and the crumbling contours of former gates are visible. Within the walls of the citadel, one can see only traces of what once stood—low stone remnants at the level of the original foundations.

To reach the heart of the fortress, visitors must first navigate a narrow path threading between two massive boulders. From there, a steep climb awaits, aided by a metal ladder that hugs the hillside. In the heat of summer, it’s wise to be cautious—metal handrails can grow scorching under the sun. One final push upward brings you to the iconic cross that crowns the fortress. Here, breathtaking views unfold in every direction. On clear days, the panorama from the heights of Kojori Fortress is nothing short of mesmerizing—a reward well worth the climb.

The citadel sits atop Mount Azeula—hence its alternate name—at an elevation of 1,340 meters. From its ramparts, one can gaze across a full 360-degree expanse. This commanding vantage point made the site a crucial strategic lookout in ancient times—the perfect perch to monitor approaching threats. Today, Kojori Fortress holds a cherished place in Georgian history and offers visitors a chance to witness awe-inspiring views of the surrounding mountain valleys. If you find yourself in Tbilisi, this is a place not to be missed.

Getting to Kojori is both easy and scenic. Bus No. 10 departs from Orbeliani Square in central Tbilisi and takes you directly to the village. Alternatively, Bus No. 106 also passes through Kojori on its way to the village of Kiketi. From there, adventure awaits just a short walk and climb away.