Betania Monastery

Nestled in the unspoiled wilderness of the Vere River Gorge, the Bethania Monastery stands in serene seclusion, surrounded by a landscape that feels untouched by time. Reaching this spiritual haven is no easy task — the journey requires effort and commitment — which is why the monastery remains blissfully less visited than many of Georgia’s more accessible religious sites. Yet this is part of its unique allure. Bethania is home to one of only four surviving frescoes of Saint Tamar, the iconic queen of Georgia’s “Golden Age,” rendered with such striking realism that it is considered a true portrait.

Since 2013, this Orthodox men’s monastery has been administratively part of the Mtatsminda District, within the Tbilisi municipality, which has status equivalent to a mkhare (region). It lies on the far western edge of the capital, brushing up against the borders of Mtskheta-Mtianeti region. Bethania Monastery is under the jurisdiction of the Mtskheta-Tbilisi Diocese of the Georgian Orthodox Church and is affectionately referred to as the Georgian Bethany — echoing the New Testament village of Bethany, where Jesus raised Lazarus and found sanctuary in the home of Martha and Mary before entering Jerusalem.

The monastery’s exact founding date remains shrouded in mystery. Still, records suggest that by the 12th century, the site already housed the burial vaults of the powerful Orbeli family, rulers of lands in the historic Kvemo Kartli region. Local legends weave a tale of divine intervention: the original site selected for the monastery was a lofty plateau with sweeping views of the valley. Stones were brought in for construction, but just as the building materials reached the required volume, they vanished — only to reappear neatly stacked in the heart of the gorge. This miraculous occurrence was seen as a heavenly sign, and so the monks built where Providence had pointed.

Long ago, the monastery was rich and thriving. Queen Tamar herself is said to have sought solitude here for prayer and reflection. But over time, the monastery was abandoned and forgotten, gradually succumbing to silence and decay. It wasn’t until the mid-19th century that the complex was rediscovered by Russian nobleman Prince Grigory Gagarin — a passionate artist, architect, and art scholar. While clearing the ruined church, Gagarin was astonished to uncover a mural depicting Queen Tamar. His discovery sparked renewed public interest and ultimately led to the restoration of the monastery. Gagarin documented the frescoes and sketched the stone-carved decorations, preserving them for posterity.

Owing to its remote location, Bethania was spared the widespread looting and destruction that befell many religious institutions after the October Revolution. While churches were desecrated and clergy executed or exiled, this hidden sanctuary quietly endured. In the early 1920s, monks Ioane (John) and Giorgi settled here, remaining until their deaths. They lived humbly, cultivating a garden, sowing wheat, building a cowshed, setting up a beehive, and even constructing a watermill in 1936. Local villagers helped with the labor, and during the hardship of World War II, the monks provided both food and spiritual support to those in need.

Officially, the two monks were listed as state employees — “guards of a cultural monument.” In truth, they conducted religious services, performed weddings and baptisms, and kept the flame of faith alive. A modest iconostasis was built inside the church, and villagers sought the monks’ wisdom from miles around. Ioane passed away in 1957, and Giorgi followed in 1962. Some years later, restorers and art historians moved in to study the Church of the Nativity of the Most Holy Theotokos. In 1978, Bethania was once again reestablished as a functioning men’s monastery, beginning with just two monastic residents.

The monastery complex includes the main cathedral, built at the turn of the 12th and 13th centuries on the foundation of an earlier structure and consecrated in honor of the Nativity of the Most Holy Theotokos. Also part of the ensemble are the small and compact Church of Saint George, dating from the late 12th century; the burial vaults of the noble Orbeli and Baratashvili families; and several auxiliary buildings.

The main church is rectangular in plan, crowned with an eastern-shifted conical dome atop a lantern drum pierced with twelve tall windows — symbolizing the twelve Apostles. Constructed from finely hewn stone, its facades are adorned with detailed carvings, and the window frames are embellished with decorative crosses and medallions. The gabled roof is layered in a tiered fashion.

Church dimensions:

• Length: 23 meters

• Width: between 14.5 and 21.5 meters

• Height including dome: 27 meters

Inside, the church is divided into three naves, with the apse located on the eastern end. Beneath the Holy Altar, dedicated to Saint Tamar, human bones were discovered during the 19th-century restoration — remarkably clean and intact, believed by many to be the remains of saints. The identity of those buried in the single grave remains unknown.

The most striking fresco is the full-length portrayal of Queen Tamar, flanked by her father, King George III, and her son, King George IV Lasha, all protected by saintly warrior-guardians. Though retouched multiple times, the original visage of the queen was painstakingly restored using advanced art-restoration methods. Experts agree that the likeness is a faithful portrait of the revered monarch.

Fragments of ancient frescoes still grace the sanctuary’s conch and apse, as well as the northern and western walls. These illustrate biblical episodes from the life of Christ — scenes of the Crucifixion and his miracles — painted between the 12th and 13th centuries, with later additions from the 14th century.

On the southern wall, the founder of the church, Prince Sumbat Orbeli, is depicted holding a model of the cathedral. Initially painted in secular dress, his figure was later revised to reflect his monastic vows. His son appears nearby, along with a fresco cycle portraying the prophecies of biblical seers.

When visiting any religious site, it is essential to remember that offending the sentiments of believers is strictly unacceptable. In particular, if you are traveling to an active monastery, it’s important to keep in mind that it is home to monks who live in strict adherence to a daily routine and monastic code.

It is said that only a few monks currently reside in Betania Monastery. They prefer to keep to themselves and generally avoid interaction with visitors, so it is advised to approach them only when absolutely necessary. One respectful way to support the monastery is by purchasing candles, brochures, or other items available in the small monastic shop.

Entering monks’ cells or any part of the monastery’s utility yard is strictly prohibited. Photography and video recording inside the church are also not allowed. Should a monk or staff member offer a correction or request, please do not argue—comply silently and respectfully. Additionally, refrain from making noise, running, jumping, smoking, littering, or disrupting the peace and sanctity of the monastery grounds. It’s worth noting that there is no internet or mobile signal in this area—silence and stillness reign here.

The monastery is located in a remote area, inaccessible by regular transport. Therefore, most pilgrims and tourists must complete the final leg of the journey—about 7 kilometers from the turnoff on the Manglisi Highway—on foot. Only off-road vehicles are capable of traversing the gravel road leading to the monastery. It’s best to leave standard vehicles, for example, in the parking area of a roadside inn located not far from the Betania turnoff. Naturally, you’ll need to make arrangements with the innkeepers to watch over your car during your absence.

Don’t rely on hitching a ride—cars rarely travel all the way to the monastery. Even the nearby abandoned village of Kveseti, which lies halfway along the route, is only sporadically visited by the few remaining seasonal residents. Nonetheless, these obstacles do not deter true travelers, especially those drawn by the promise of breathtaking landscapes, panoramic views, the invigorating scent of pine forests, the extraordinary tranquility of nature, and pure mountain air.

The return journey from the monastery back to the Manglisi Highway is significantly more demanding, as the path climbs steadily uphill. The elevation difference between start and end points is approximately 600 meters.

From the center of Georgia’s capital, Tbilisi, you can take city minibus No. 106 to Kiketi. However, it does not reach the monastery turnoff, stopping about 3 kilometers short. Be sure to ask the driver to let you off on the Manglisi Highway before he turns toward the village. From there, you’ll need to walk—or hope for a rare passing vehicle.

Alternatively, intercity minibuses depart from Tbilisi’s railway station toward Akhali Pantiani and Manglisi. These do go directly to the turnoff leading to Betania Monastery. Timetables are posted at the departure point, and you should inform the driver in advance of your intended stop.