The Metekhi Church in Tbilisi stands as one of the most iconic historical landmarks preserved in the Georgian capital. Perched on the banks of the Kura River, this Georgian Orthodox church forms part of an ancient fortress complex that once included a castle and a monastery. Throughout its long history, it even served as the royal residence of Georgian monarchs. Remarkably, the church has maintained its original architectural character to this day. Both locals and travelers often refer to Metekhi as the calling card of Tbilisi—and even of Georgia itself. Its imposing silhouette is visible from nearly every vantage point in the city, seemingly rooted into the cliff upon which it rests, mirroring in stature and spirit the Narikala Fortress on the opposite bank.
The earliest references to Metekhi Church date back to the 12th century. Since its construction, the church has endured numerous upheavals, including periods of destruction and rebuilding. In ancient times, it was the center of a fortified complex protected by strong defensive walls. A grand palace once stood nearby, attesting to the site’s royal significance. The Mongol invasion inflicted severe damage upon both the church and the palace, prompting a major reconstruction effort. Again in the 15th century, Metekhi suffered greatly at the hands of Persian forces. During the 16th and 17th centuries, local rulers undertook a series of restorations, which ultimately ensured the survival of this sacred site into the present day.
In the 19th century, part of the church’s fortification walls was demolished. By 1819, the church building itself had been repurposed into a prison, a function it retained under the NKVD from 1921 onwards. During the Soviet era, the prison structures were dismantled, and the church faced the threat of demolition as well. In 1937, a notable Georgian artist, Dimitri Shevardnadze, publicly opposed Beria’s order to destroy the site. For his resistance, Shevardnadze was arrested and later executed, yet his sacrifice saved the Metekhi Church. Over the years, the building served variously as a museum and a theater. In 1988, following a comprehensive restoration, it was finally returned to the Georgian Orthodox Church and has functioned as an active place of worship ever since.
A well-known legend is intimately tied to the location of Metekhi Church. In the 5th century AD, during the reign of King Vakhtang I Gorgasali, a military commander named Vardan Mamikonian served in the Georgian court. His daughter, Shushanik, was married to the ruler of Kartli, Vasak. When Vasak rejected the Georgian king’s authority and aligned himself with the Persian Shah Peroz, he renounced his Christian faith, his wife, and their children in exchange for political favor. Upon learning this, Shushanik secluded herself in a monastic cell, devoting her days to prayer for the salvation of her soul and those of her children.
Vasak tried to coax her into abandoning her faith, first through deceit and persuasion, then through violence. Shushanik refused to yield. After her parents implored her to appear, she briefly emerged, only to be met with further attempts by Vasak to force her into adopting his new pagan beliefs. Unmoved, she endured savage beatings and was imprisoned in a hidden chamber of the palace without food or water. Secretly, Christian priests brought her sustenance, enabling her to survive.
Eventually, she was freed during a time of war, but upon returning home, she was once again beaten and locked in a dungeon. She remained confined there for six years, until her death in 475. The original fortress where she had lived no longer exists, but the place where she is said to have prayed fervently now hosts the Metekhi Church. Her relics are buried beside the church, imbuing the site with sacred reverence.
Though modest in scale—approximately 15 by 20 meters—the Metekhi Church is architecturally striking. It rises tall and proud, laid out in a near-square plan. At the center stands a round tower crowned by a sharply pointed conical roof. The structure is supported by four robust columns. On the eastern wall of the church, one can find an engraved inscription that reads:
“King Heraclius seized this fortress from the enemy by force…”
This same side of the building features ancient windows adorned with intricately carved stone frames. The western façade, which faces the city, is less distinctive, while the southern side has been reconstructed multiple times. The northern side, however, contains a rare architectural gem—a stone portico that has survived from antiquity. The craftsmanship of its masonry and the carved decorative elements are especially impressive. Many of the stone carvings depict grapevines, a motif deeply rooted in Georgian symbolism and Christian tradition.
Metekhi Church is one of the three major monuments to have endured from Georgia’s Golden Age, alongside the Sioni Cathedral and the Blue Monastery. Of these, only Metekhi still bears its ancient design elements, particularly the exquisite stone carvings that were highly popular during that era.
The interior of the church, in contrast, has a more modern appearance. The original interior details have not survived. Today, the walls are gray and austere, lined with pointed arches. No ancient frescoes remain. Nevertheless, several icons housed within are of particular interest, including the “100,000 Martyrs of Metekhi,” an icon of Saint Shushanik, and another of Abo of Tbilisi.
Just beside Metekhi Church stands a monument to King Vakhtang I Gorgasali, the legendary founder of Tbilisi. Created by the prominent sculptor Elguja Amashukeli, the statue is a dramatic bronze equestrian figure set atop a rocky promontory. It watches over the city with the same noble gaze that shaped its destiny.
Metekhi Church is located in the historic heart of Tbilisi’s Old Town. The nearest metro station is Avlabari, served by the M1 metro line. Several bus routes also pass close to the church, including numbers 31, 44, 50, 55, 71, 80, and 102. The Europe Square bus stop is the most convenient drop-off point, from which the church is just a short walk away.
