Old Town, Tbilisi

Old Tbilisi is a place where the spirit of the past breathes through weathered stone and clay buildings, and where the medieval atmosphere casts an enduring spell on travelers. Time seems to have paused here, suspended in the golden light that dances across narrow lanes. Known in Georgian as Dzveli Kalaki, this historic quarter lies along the banks of the Kura River (Mtkvari), nestled at the foot of Mtatsminda Mountain. The city spread across this territory as early as the 12th century, and today visitors can still marvel at such landmarks as the Metekhi Church, Anchiskhati Basilica, the famous Sulfur Baths, the majestic Sioni Cathedral, and the Palace of Queen Darejan.

In earlier centuries, the entire district functioned as a Persian fortress called Kala, while the name Tbilisi referred only to the settlements lying outside its bastions. Medieval fortifications encircled the perimeter, threading through modern-day Dadiani Street and the Narikala Fortress. Remnants of the ancient northern wall still cling to the river embankment, surviving in fragments near Baratashvili Avenue and Pushkin Street.

The architectural charm of Old Tbilisi lies in its unique two-story houses, where exterior staircases lead directly to open terraces that double as entrances. Within the courtyards, cozy gazebos entwined with grapevines offer a glimpse into the region’s timeless hospitality.

The city’s visage changed dramatically in 1795, when over 30,000 soldiers of the Persian Shah launched a brutal assault on the Georgian army, which was outnumbered five to one. Of Tbilisi’s defenders, only 150 survived. The invaders plundered the city with savage fury and then set it ablaze. Chronicles of the time describe streets buried under rubble and the dire need to rebuild from scratch. General Yermolov was tasked with restoring the city, and in just three years, he resurrected its infrastructure, infusing the rebuilt capital with a touch of European elegance.

But it wasn’t just marauders that threatened Tbilisi—earthquakes, too, took their toll. Many of the old district’s buildings crumbled under seismic force. The oldest surviving structure today is the Aramyants Caravanserai, dating back to 1818.

Kala is celebrated for its wine cellars, shops, and cozy stores. On Leselidze Street alone, there are a dozen wine boutiques, including the legendary Vinoteka. Each one offers a warm Georgian welcome, an informal masterclass in wine appreciation, and, more often than not, a complimentary tasting. In return, it is customary to purchase a bottle—a token of gratitude for Bacchus’ generous gifts.

Among Old Tbilisi’s many treasures are its renowned sulfur baths, a favorite haunt of the great Russian poet Alexander Pushkin. During his 1829 visit to Tiflis, he celebrated his 30th birthday here and wrote of his admiration in A Journey to Arzrum:

“Nowhere in Russia or Turkey have I encountered anything more luxurious than the Tiflis baths…”

The name Abanotubani literally translates to “bath district.” This striking ensemble of dome-topped structures, built in the Persian style from stone, resembles an enclave of igloos. Though their interiors are now rather austere compared to centuries past—when frescoes adorned the walls and flickering torchlight cast dancing shadows—the allure remains.

The oldest bathhouse, Iraklievskaya, is mentioned in 16th-century chronicles during the reign of King Heraclius II. The others date back two to three hundred years. These historical gems have not become mere museum pieces; they are still in active use, drawing both locals and visitors for their healing waters.

The core of the bathing ritual is the naturally heated steam, rich in sulfur. Locals believe these waters slow aging and cure ailments, which may explain the notable longevity among Georgians. Skilled mekise, or Georgian bath attendants, work tirelessly in the steam, wielding birch and oak twigs with expert hands. Among the few downsides: the unmistakable scent of sulfur—soon forgotten—and the lack of a large cold-water pool for contrast.

The heartbeat of the district is Konstantine Leselidze Street—renamed in post-Soviet times after General Kote Abkhazi—which stretches from Tatar Maidan to Freedom Square. For centuries, this road bustled with trade and was known as the Armenian Bazaar. Once lined with artisan workshops and merchants’ stalls, it now entices visitors with souvenirs, churchkhela, and, of course, bottles of Georgian wine.

The architectural mosaic here reflects the city’s multicultural heritage: a synagogue, a mosque, and both Gregorian and Catholic churches stand as symbols of coexistence.

Another iconic lane is Shardeni Street, named after Jean Chardin, a 17th-century French jeweler who journeyed to Persia and East India by way of the Black Sea and Colchis. On his route, he passed through Tiflis and later wrote vivid descriptions of the city in his travelogues.

Today, Shardeni is home to vibrant bars, charming cafes, and eclectic restaurants. Tourists often rest here after long walks, enjoying a hookah or a light meal. The layout of this narrow passage justifies its French namesake—buildings hug each other tightly, and cafe tables claim much of the walkway, much like the boulevards of Paris.

On Sioni Street stands the Sioni Cathedral, home to a sacred relic: the cross of Saint Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia. A 15th-century bell tower rises nearby, echoing centuries of devotion.

Botanical Street, one of the main arteries for sightseeing, offers visual delight at every turn. The early foundations of Tbilisi trace back to this neighborhood, including the historic Abanotubani area. This street likely existed as early as the 5th century. The origins of the Narikala Fortress are shrouded in mystery, though first mentions appear in the 4th century. From the ramparts of Narikala, one enjoys a sweeping, 360-degree panorama of the city—accessible via a scenic cable car ride.

Geographically, the Old Town occupies a compact segment in the southeastern heart of Georgia’s capital, where all roads seem to converge. The easiest way to reach it is on foot—from Freedom Square Metro Station, stroll down Rustaveli Avenue, or start from Rustaveli Metro Station itself.

A walk from one end of the district to the other takes about 20 minutes. For a whirlwind tour, two hours may suffice—but few visitors can resist staying longer. The city’s undulating terrain is deceptively tiring, making sturdy footwear essential. Comfortable sneakers or walking shoes will serve far better than sandals or dress shoes.