St. George’s Church (Kashveti)

The Church of St. George, more commonly known as Kashveti, is an active Georgian Orthodox place of worship belonging to the Mtskheta-Tbilisi Eparchy. Located on Rustaveli Avenue, at the very heart of the Georgian capital and just steps away from the Parliament building, the church commands one of the most prominent positions in Tbilisi. Its visibility and central location have earned it widespread recognition—both among locals and among travelers from around the world.

The site on which Kashveti Church stands today has long held spiritual significance. Before the present-day structure was erected, a much older religious building occupied this place. Its appearance and architecture remain a mystery, but historical records confirm the existence of a tetraconch-style church founded in 1753 by the noble Amilakhvari family. Built from brick, the structure stood for roughly half a century before age and decay claimed it. The Kashveti Church we see today was constructed between 1904 and 1910, under the direction of the renowned Tiflis-based architect Leopold Bilfeldt. Commissioned by Georgian aristocrats and prominent entrepreneurs—including David Sarajishvili, Anna Amilakhvari, Anton Arjevanidze, and Nikoloz Tumanishvili—the church was modeled after the medieval Samtavisi Cathedral. As a result, although relatively young, Kashveti emanates a deeply traditional, authentically Georgian aesthetic.

The name Kashveti itself translates to “to give birth to a stone” in Georgian—kva meaning “stone” and shva meaning “to give birth.” This unusual name is rooted in a centuries-old legend, passed down orally through generations. According to the tale, in the mid-6th century, a foolish nun falsely accused the revered Assyrian saint David Garejeli of fathering her child. In response, the saint prophesied that her deceit would be exposed when she gave birth not to a child, but to a stone. As the legend goes, this is precisely what happened. Her lie was unmasked, and the spot where the miraculous event took place eventually became known as “Kashveti.”

In the spring of 1989, the grounds of the Kashveti Church served as a focal point for an anti-Soviet demonstration. After the protest was brutally dispersed, the injured were brought into the church for shelter. Later, during the 1991–1992 armed conflict between the Georgian opposition and Zviad Gamsakhurdia’s National Guard, the church suffered minor structural damage. To this day, traces of bullet holes—now hidden beneath plaster—remain as quiet witnesses to those turbulent times.

Kashveti Church is moderate in size, but rich in detail and craftsmanship. The Italian master Leonardo Lorenzetti played a key role in its construction, particularly in shaping its architectural form. He was aided in decorating the facades by the Agladze brothers—Neophytos, Iakinte, Nico, and Lado—who would later go on to found Georgia’s first school and factory specializing in ornamental stone carving.

The church’s interior was adorned a few decades after its construction. In 1947, celebrated Georgian artist Lado Gudiashvili painted the frescoes that now embellish the walls. His work stirred both admiration and controversy. Some art historians believe that his depiction of Jesus Christ was modeled after the young sculptor Bidzina Avalishvili. Gudiashvili’s approach to sacred art boldly departed from traditional iconographic rules, infusing the frescoes with expressive emotion and a sensual, almost pictorial quality. These deviations were met with disapproval by the ecclesiastical authorities. Consequently, Gudiashvili was expelled from both the Communist Party and the Academy of Arts, and spent years struggling to restore his reputation.

Nevertheless, many of his frescoes remain in place today. Visitors can admire his rendition of the Last Supper on the lower tier of the apse and a depiction of the Virgin Mary above it—flanked by a mysterious female figure to her left and an angel to her right. Later frescoes added to the church include scenes from the life of Saint David Garejeli on the portico walls and a representation of the descent of the Holy Spirit upon the Apostles. A statue of Lado Gudiashvili himself now graces the garden beside the church, on its southeastern side.

The church grounds are also the final resting place of notable figures. Here lie the graves of Russian general and Georgian poet Grigol Orbeliani, and of the esteemed Georgian scholar, philanthropist, and entrepreneur David Zakharovich Sarajishvili—the visionary founder of several brandy distilleries across the Russian Empire. Sarajishvili, who died in 1911, was buried on the southern side of the church, near the small church shop.

The construction of Kashveti Church marked the beginning of a new architectural movement in Georgia—the era of Neo-Georgian style. Inspired by this landmark, other buildings soon followed suit, including the Caucasus Museum and the building of the Noble Bank, both located in the nearby streets. Once, the grand Alexander Nevsky Cathedral stood across from Kashveti, but it was later demolished and replaced by the Government House.