Tea is one of the most important agricultural crops in Georgia, holding significance comparable to that of grapes and wine. Both industries emerged simultaneously in the mid-19th century, receiving substantial investment from the Soviet government. They reached remarkable heights in the 1930s but began to decline in the 1980s. By the 1990s, both industries faced a steep downturn and nearly vanished, with the notable exception that winemaking managed to stay afloat. During the Saakashvili era, both sectors began to revive, although winemaking enjoyed a more fortunate resurgence. Today, it can confidently be said that Georgia still produces good tea, albeit in limited quantities and with considerable difficulty in finding it. Interestingly, unlike its neighbor Azerbaijan, tea consumption in Georgia remains relatively low for reasons that remain unclear.
The tea plant itself is an evergreen shrub scientifically known as Camellia sinensis. Externally, it resembles a bush that can grow for many years, eventually maturing into a sizable tree. In ancient times, the Chinese discovered the art of brewing leaves from this shrub. During the pre-Mongol era, they ground the leaves into a powder, creating a beverage reminiscent of modern tea bags. This trend made its way to Japan, where it has persisted to this day. By the 14th century, the Chinese began brewing loose leaf tea, and gradually, tea spread across the globe. In India, Mongolia, and England, it evolved into “tea with milk,” while in Russia, Turkey, and Arab countries, it became known as “tea with sugar.” In North and Central America, tea has yet to gain popularity.
Tea as a plant has specific requirements for optimal growth. It necessitates a clever combination of conditions, thriving in subtropical climates with temperature variations and minimal wind. There are also certain soil composition requirements, though they are not as strict as those for grapevines. The primary product is the leaf, not the fruit, which means tea does not have a specific harvest season; it can be collected from spring to autumn at almost any moment.
Tea requires humid subtropical conditions, which is why it flourishes in Western Georgia but does not grow in the East. The best region for tea cultivation is considered to be Guria. If you drive to Batumi, you will notice numerous tea bushes on either side of the road as it bypasses Kobuleti. There are also many tea plants in the Gurian mountains, though accessing these remote areas can be quite challenging.
For a time, tea was an expensive imported product in Russia. In 1817, the first tea bush was planted in Crimea, but something went awry. In 1847, Count Vorontsov proposed an experimental planting of tea in Georgia. The first bush took root in the city of Ozurgeti. Rumor has it that it still grows somewhere within the city limits, though it is visually indistinguishable from the surrounding orange trees and poplars. Following this, efforts began to cultivate a suitable variety, which took some time. In 1893, a merchant named Popov brought a living Chinese tea specialist named Lao Jan Zhou from southern China, settling him in the village of Chakvi, where he began his tea experiments. It turned out that the subtropical climate of Adjara and the local soil were highly conducive to tea cultivation, leading to the establishment of the first tea plantations near Chakvi by the early 20th century. This tea even won an award in Paris in 1901. The Chinese experimenter was even captured in a color photograph by Proskudin-Gorsky.
In 1921, the Soviet government came to power. The Chinese tea specialist was offered Russian citizenship, which he declined. He was then asked to leave the country. In 1925, Lao Jan Zhou departed from Georgia, leaving behind his home in Chakvi and many personal belongings, which can now be seen in the Batumi Local History Museum. You can still see his house in Chakvi, which has long been desired to be restored, but various obstacles have continually hindered this effort.
During Beria’s time, tea cultivation was taken seriously, involving botanists and securing funding, leading to a proliferation of tea factories in Georgia. The Soviet Union sought economic independence, and the Georgian Soviet government needed to address social issues: there were no lucrative agricultural crops in Western Georgia, and tea emerged as a salvation. Growing tea proved profitable, providing good wages, and people were more willing to join collective farms. During those years, the quality of tea was genuinely high, meeting global standards.
The Soviet regime established the tea industry, but it was also responsible for its downfall. Around the Brezhnev era (the time of Mzhavanadze and Shevardnadze in Georgia), both the quality and quantity of tea began to decline. In its prime, Georgia harvested 95,000 tons of tea annually, but by the 1980s, this had dropped to less than 60,000 tons. Increasingly, Georgian tea was mixed with Indian tea, leading to predictable consequences: when the Soviet distribution system collapsed, Georgian tea became unwanted. Equipment was sold off to Turkey, factories fell into disrepair, and plantations became overgrown with weeds.
During the Saakashvili era, there were some attempts to revive the tea industry, but these efforts met with limited success. Georgian tea is an intriguing product in the tea market, much like Georgian wine is in the wine market; however, while wine has thrived, tea has struggled. In the markets of Kutaisi, Ozurgeti, and Batumi, you can find authentic Georgian tea, but it is often produced in a small-scale, artisanal manner (meaning it is not professionally crafted), resulting in a somewhat coarse flavor. While you can buy it to taste, purchasing it as a gift or souvenir may not be the most practical choice.
There are also products from tea factories that produce tea on a more professional level. Currently, Georgia boasts tea factories in Kobuleti, Tsalenjikha, and Ozurgeti—these three are recognized by experts as the best, especially the Tsalenjikha factory. In addition to these, there is the “Martvili Tea” factory located in the village of Didi-Chkoni, which produces black, green, and herbal teas. This factory is well-known among tour agencies, and they often organize excursions there.
Moreover, there is a factory situated in the heart of Lanchkhuti in Guria. This unassuming warehouse houses machinery and is where tea is packaged, and it also offers tastings. Here, a variety of teas are produced: small-leaf black tea, large-leaf black tea, green tea, white tea, and more. The factory is conveniently located just a few dozen meters from the Batumi-Kutaisi highway, making it easy to stop by while traveling.
At present, the evaluation system for tea is still in development, and the factories have not been thoroughly studied. However, the Lanchkhuti factory stands out distinctly amidst the others. Its tea is comparable to that of serious Chinese and Vietnamese brands.