Tusheti essential guide

With proper planning and precautions, the risks of traveling to Tusheti can be minimized.

• First and foremost, choose an experienced driver for your journey. Avoid traveling in poor weather, especially after rainfall when landslides are more likely, and always drive during daylight hours. This applies not only to the so-called “road of death” but also to the narrow mountain roads connecting the villages. Along the road to Tusheti, you’ll notice memorials to those who lost their lives on the pass. Locals say many accidents were alcohol-related.

• Tusheti has no hospitals, and the entire region is served by only one doctor. Medical insurance is highly recommended. Omalo, the main village, has a single police station.

• Many of the shorter hiking routes in Tusheti are suitable for beginners, but multi-day treks through remote mountain passes should be attempted only by experienced hikers. Be aware of shepherd dogs along the trails — if they become aggressive, call out for the shepherd who is usually nearby.

• Tourists, especially women, are advised to dress conservatively — covering shoulders and knees — to avoid unwanted attention and respect local customs.

Women must not approach sacred sites.
Tushetian stone sanctuaries, known as khati, are gender-specific and strictly regulated. In fact, women beyond a certain age are prohibited from even approaching these shrines. Visitors — regardless of gender — are advised to steer clear of such sacred spaces altogether. This restriction also applies to certain church ruins and other sites that may not be obviously sacred, so if you’re traveling with a guide, inquire in advance.
Although the rule doesn’t apply to outsiders, in local tradition men and women eat separately. Social customs are slowly evolving, especially in villages closer to the foothills, but the deeper into the mountains you go, the stricter the traditions become.
Despite being Eastern Orthodox Christians with remnants of pre-Christian beliefs, the people of Tusheti strictly prohibit pork — not only eating it but even bringing it into the mountains. Interestingly, in the lowlands, locals do consume pork, but in the highlands, it remains a cultural taboo.

There is only one road leading to the highland villages of Tusheti, constructed about 40 years ago and open for just four months each year. There is no public transport serving this region.
The road, known as the Pshaveli–Abano–Omalo route, begins in Kakheti. While the government is working on improving the safety of the Abano Pass, the road remains unpaved and treacherous, full of hairpin turns and steep drops.
The journey from Tbilisi to Tusheti takes an average of 7–8 hours: approximately two hours to Kvemo Alvani via the Gombori Pass, followed by around five more hours to reach Omalo. You can take public transport to Telavi, but beyond that, you’ll need to arrange a private vehicle.

Only if you have significant experience driving in Georgia and navigating mountain roads.
For most of the route, there is no mobile signal — if something breaks down, you must be able to fix it yourself. A four-wheel-drive vehicle, such as a Jeep, is essential. Moreover, not all car rental companies permit their vehicles to be used for trips to Tusheti.

• Cash and your passport (stored in a waterproof pouch);

• A power adapter with multiple USB ports, as outlets are limited in guesthouses;

• A portable battery pack — electricity is unreliable and often weak;

• Sunscreen and insect repellent;

• Warm, comfortable clothing and footwear — there’s no central heating in the homes.

• Cafes are scarce in Tushetian villages. Meals are generally served in guesthouses for an additional fee.
  Tour operators typically coordinate meals in advance to ensure everything is ready upon arrival. However, independent travelers should make their own arrangements. The local cuisine centers on vegetables, herbs, dairy products, as well as beef and lamb.

  Tushetian Dishes and Drinks to Try:

  • Guda or Gudis Kveli — a salty cheese aged in a sheepskin;

  • Kotori — the local version of khachapuri;

  • Khavitsi — a rich blend of cheese and butter, perfect for dipping bread;

  • Tushetian-style khinkali filled with meat;

  • Herbal tea made from kondari (savory);

  • Aludi — a mildly alcoholic, kombucha-like drink.

  And for the truly local experience, try Ludi, or “Tushetian beer”: a dark, almost alcohol-free beverage with an incredibly foamy head and a surprisingly rich flavor. It’s closer in taste to kvass or Ossetian aluton but is distinct from both. Just be clear in your request — unless you specifically ask for Tushetian homemade beer, you may be served a sour commercial brew at triple the price.

Tusheti lacks conventional grocery stores and pharmacies. There are, however, a few small village shops that offer basic goods. Nonetheless, bring everything essential with you — don’t rely on being able to buy items on-site. There are no ATMs in the region, and only cash is accepted.

Tusheti is famed for its sheep-herding traditions, and local crafts made from wool and felt are a highlight.
Nearly every guesthouse sells handmade souvenirs: knitted socks, woolen hats, mittens, felt carpets, slippers, and caps. The most iconic — and perhaps bulky — souvenir is the nabadi cloak, traditionally worn by shepherds and emblematic of the Tushetian highlands.