The natural beauty of Tusheti is a harmonious fusion of majestic mountain peaks, high passes, scenic slopes, deep gorges, rivers, meadows, and lush valleys. Its picturesque villages, with their houses perched precariously on hillsides, each hold stories of the past and greet travelers with their own unique landmarks—towers, fortresses, and the weathered remnants of ancient temples.
Near the Visitor Center in Kvemo Omalo, a panoramic viewpoint offers sweeping views of the surrounding landscapes. From here, one can take in the sight of the villages of Kumelaurta, Tsokalta, Chighlaurta, and Khakhabo.
Omalo is widely considered the capital of Tusheti—a title earned not by its grandeur, but by its relative size and population. Despite its status, Omalo is only partially inhabited, a ghost of its former self. Its crown jewel is the Keselo fortress complex, a cluster of mushroom-like defensive towers that rise defiantly against the sky. These ancient structures, likely erected in the Middle Ages, once offered vital protection from invaders. Visitors can climb the towers free of charge and explore the adjacent ethnographic museum that sheds light on Tusheti’s cultural heritage.
Dartlo stands among the highest and most stunning villages in Tusheti, a settlement etched into the mountains like a forgotten dream. On its outskirts lie the crumbling remains of a 19th-century church, while within the village itself, familiar towers and houses cling precariously to the steep terrain. Built from native stone and topped with slate roofs, these homes resemble miniature fortresses, harmonizing perfectly with their rugged environment.
In Shenako, one of Tusheti’s only two functioning churches stands as a quiet testament to faith. Built in the mid-19th century and consecrated in honor of Saint George, it still welcomes visitors today. Nearby, one finds an ancient place of worship—an old pagan sanctuary that speaks to the deep-rooted spiritual legacy of the region.
Kvahlo village is known for its singular pyramidal tower, a striking architectural anomaly. The village sprawls across rocky slopes, with narrow passages connecting houses, each one carved directly into the stone. In Verkhovani, visitors will find the tallest tower in all of Tusheti, soaring 17 meters into the sky. The village of Dochu surprises with its atypical three-story homes complete with wooden balconies—an unusual sight in this mountainous region. Meanwhile, Khakhabo offers yet another departure from tradition, with wooden houses replacing the more common stone structures.
The Tusheti National Park harbors relics of an ancient world: timeworn burial sites, tombs from the 5th century, and solitary crosses standing sentinel on windswept hills. Thermal springs bubble in remote corners, where once, during Soviet times, a health resort operated—now abandoned, its dilapidated barracks echoing with silence. Tusheti brims with wonders and curiosities at every turn. To truly experience its richness, a brief visit will not suffice—it is a place best explored over several days, allowing its timeless magic to unfold.
Omalo is the main village and the administrative heart of Tusheti, home to around 1,200 residents. Despite being the region’s largest and most populated village, it remains, in many ways, semi-abandoned. Nestled between the towering Greater Caucasus range and the Pirikita Ridge (the Inner Ridge of Tusheti), Omalo sits at an elevation of 1,880 meters.
The village is traditionally divided into two parts: Old Omalo and New Omalo. Old Omalo is a rugged hilltop crowned by the most iconic man-made landmark in the region—the Keselo Fortress. Its mushroom-shaped defensive towers dominate the cliff, a legacy of medieval times when locals needed strongholds to fend off invaders. Visitors can climb these towers freely, and the site also houses an ethnographic museum.
Down in the valley lies New Omalo, which today functions as the actual administrative and economic hub of the region.
Built in the 13th century during the Mongol invasions of the Caucasus, this mountain citadel earned its name—Keselo, meaning “strong”—for good reason. Originally composed of 13 towers, only 5 remain standing today.
Perched on a cliff edge, the fortress was nearly unassailable in its time. A secret 120-meter underground tunnel once connected it to the Indurti Tskali River to ensure the defenders had access to water—though this tunnel has since collapsed.
Northeast of the fortress lie the remnants of a sacred grove and a “khati” shrine. In ancient times, each extended family had its own khati—a sacred altar where it was believed a protective deity resided. Each of these deities had a name and distinct rituals associated with it. Although the Tush people are Orthodox Christians today, their faith is still deeply intertwined with ancestral pagan beliefs and highland rituals.
The koshkebi, or traditional Tushetian towers, once crumbling, have now been restored. Some stand unused, while one in Lower Omalo has been transformed into a guesthouse.
At 1,900 meters above sea level, Dartlo sits on the slopes above the Pirikita Alazani River and is considered one of the most beautiful villages in Tusheti.
In addition to a 12-bed guesthouse and a helipad (briefly seen in the opening of the film Mimino), Dartlo is home to several ancient defensive towers—one of which, now centrally located in the village, has a particularly dramatic past. This six-story tower withstood numerous attacks. The ground floor was used to hold prisoners; the second through fifth floors served residential and storage purposes, and the sixth floor functioned as a defensive post.
Nearby is a “stone circle” known as the law court. In this open-air tribunal, elders gathered on stone seats to deliberate pressing issues. One seat was reserved for the judge and another for the accused—justice, administered under the sky.
The easiest way to reach Dartlo is to arrange a trip with the same driver who brought you to Omalo from Kakheti. Alternatively, the hike from Omalo to Dartlo takes about four hours on foot.
If you’re heading to Dartlo—whether on foot or by jeep—it’s worth continuing your journey uphill to the village of Kvavlo. While Dartlo may boast more decorative architecture, Kvavlo’s lofty perch offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.
In Kvavlo, alongside the stunning mountain scenery, visitors will find unique Tushetian watchtowers that command particular attention.
These towers stand apart from their Svan or Khevsur counterparts and feature roofs that bear an uncanny resemblance to Chinese pagodas. Today, Kvavlo is nearly abandoned, with just one house inhabited year-round—a former dwelling converted into a guesthouse. Lodging prices here are comparable to those in Omalo.
Separated from Omalo by a deep gorge, the village of Shenako once inspired plans for a cable car connecting the two—a project that never materialized. Shenako’s most notable landmark is the only Orthodox church in Tusheti, built in 1843 by Greek settlers and recently adorned with fresh frescoes.
For Christian Tush people, sacred structures often retain pagan associations. One example is the nishi, a stone altar used for rituals. The word derives from the Georgian nishani, meaning “sign.” To this day, such altars retain pagan significance—during festivals, sacrificial rams are slaughtered here.
Women are forbidden from entering nishi grounds. In Omalo, a sign reading “No Women” marks one such sacred site, often to the indignation of Western tourists.
Coordinates: 42.37199, 45.6623. Getting there: Shenako is a two-hour hike from Omalo along a steep trail.
At 2,150 meters above sea level, Diklo is known for its panoramic vistas and ancient towers. The village clings to the slope above the gorge of the Andi Koysu River, a path that eventually leads to Dagestan.
While technically reachable by off-road vehicle from Omalo, the route is so rugged that most visitors opt to drive as far as Shenako and then complete the journey on foot.
Lake Oreti is consistently ranked among Georgia’s ten most beautiful lakes. Its tranquil waters offer sweeping views across nearly all of Tusheti.
The lake is accessible from Omalo by foot or horseback, covering a distance of 9.5 kilometers.
Bochorna holds the title of the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe—standing 2,345 meters above sea level.
For a time, it vied for this distinction with the Dagestani village of Kurush and an alpine village elsewhere in Europe. But it was recently granted the official status of Europe’s highest inhabited settlement, as confirmed by a commemorative plaque.
Local residents credit this honor to a retired doctor born in Bochorna. Determined to secure the title, he appealed to the authorities. The response was that while Bochorna was indeed higher than Kurush, it couldn’t qualify unless at least one person resided there year-round.
And so, the doctor began spending every winter in Bochorna—entirely alone. By the fourth winter, his efforts were officially recognized, and his birthplace gained the title it rightfully deserved.
Bochorna is about 12 kilometers from Omalo via a well-maintained dirt road. On a clear day, the village can be seen from the towers of Keselo Fortress—and from Bochorna’s slopes, one can gaze back at the fortress. Horseback trips to Bochorna and back can also be arranged in Omalo.
