Rukhi Fortress

The Rukhi Fortress, located in the village of Rukhi, has survived to this day only in the form of ancient ruins. Interestingly, the village itself was a bustling town during the 17th–18th centuries, while the imposing fortress, once part of the powerful Odishi principality (as Samegrelo was known in earlier times), stood as a silent witness to the battles and devastation endured by its people, who sought refuge behind its walls. Situated just 7 kilometers from Zugdidi, on the banks of the Inguri River, this fortress was once the proud possession of the Mingrelian princes of the Dadiani dynasty. Its construction is attributed to the 17th century, with one of the Dadiani family members personally overseeing its erection.

Historians and scholars suggest that Rukhi Fortress was part of the larger Kelasuri Wall system, which stretched for more than 160 kilometers. In 1779, near these very walls, a fierce battle took place between Turkish and Georgian forces, with the king of Imereti, Solomon I, among the combatants. A deeper dive into Georgian history reveals that this fortress served as a reliable stronghold against enemy assaults and feudal raids for many years. Numerous Georgian authors have immortalized these battles in their literary works.

This ancient fortification, heavily damaged by the end of the 18th century, stands near the Abkhazian region and is often referred to as a “frozen piece of history carved in stone.” Although the fortress suffered significant destruction during battles, several of its towers have remarkably withstood the ravages of time. The defensive complex is encircled by an imposing ten-meter-high wall, which once guarded its inner grounds.

Feudal Samegrelo boasted numerous such fortresses, many of which were strategically erected on the Colchian lowlands. Earlier defensive structures, like Skhepi and Chakvinji, were typically built on mountain heights, making them difficult to access. However, as time progressed, fortress designs evolved. Constant threats of sudden attacks necessitated the construction of fortifications closer to populated areas, allowing for the swift evacuation of people and their possessions. Consequently, such fortresses required expansive grounds, a factor that was fully considered during the construction of Rukhi Fortress.

The renowned Georgian historian Vakhushti Bagrationi confirmed that it was Levan Dadiani who initiated the construction of the Rukhi Fortress in 1647. At that time, Georgia was fragmented into independent states and principalities, with urban life in decline. Samegrelo, though a beautiful land, was sparsely populated, its territory predominantly covered in forests, with scattered dwellings hidden within their depths.

Levan Dadiani sought to remedy this situation. He brought merchants to settle in Rukhi, laying the foundation for a flourishing town. Dreaming of establishing trade with foreign countries, his ambitions were, however, thwarted by the Ottoman blockade of the Black Sea, which severed any chance of connection with Western Europe.

Nonetheless, the fortress itself—this monumental architectural feat—continued to embody the hopes and resilience of its people, though its construction was born of necessity. Levan Dadiani’s era was marked by numerous church buildings and restorations, making it likely that the fortress was also built under the guidance of his contemporaries.

Throughout its existence, Rukhi Fortress bore silent witness to countless enemy invasions, most notably by Turkish forces. One of the most significant confrontations was the “Battle of Rukhi” in 1779. According to historical accounts, under the Treaty of Küçük Kaynarca, the Turks were officially barred from interfering in Imeretian affairs. Nevertheless, that same year, they attempted to sever Odishi principality from Imereti by launching an offensive through Abkhazia into Samegrelo. The Ottomans were joined by Alans, Circassians, Crimean Tatars, Abkhazians, Jiks, and Balkars, while Kaikhosro Dadiani sought assistance from Solomon I, king of Imereti. The decisive battle unfolded between Zugdidi and Rukhi Fortress, culminating in a resounding victory for the allied forces of Guria, Imereti, and Samegrelo. The victors seized an impressive bounty of trophies, enemy artillery, and numerous prisoners. This triumph effectively halted Turkish expansion into the region for many years to come.

Local legend holds that the fortress was part of an ancient signal system: upon the first sign of a Turkish invasion, fires would be lit at Rukhi Fortress, then relayed to Chakvinji, and further on to Skhepi, warning the entire region.

Today, what remains of Rukhi Fortress are grandiose ruins, their foundations overgrown with grass and wild shrubs. The mighty stone walls, now entwined with greenery, rise majestically above the plain, as if lost in contemplations of bygone battles. Despite the passage of centuries and the inevitable decay, the fortress’s grandeur remains undiminished, captivating visitors with its silent yet powerful presence. A visit to these timeworn walls offers not only a unique glimpse into history but also a perfect opportunity to capture stunning photographs as lasting memories.

The Kelasuri Wall, also known as the Great Abkhazian Wall, is a defensive line of fortifications that traverses parts of Abkhazia and extends into Samegrelo. The origins of this monumental structure remain shrouded in mystery, giving rise to numerous legends and scholarly debates. Official sources attribute its construction to a Mingrelian prince in the 16th century. However, alternative theories suggest that its origins date back to the 5th–6th centuries, with some crediting Emperor Justinian. Abkhazian folklore, meanwhile, tells of a local prince who ordered its construction to defend against unnamed invaders.

One hypothesis posits that the wall once incorporated as many as 300 fortresses, though it is unclear whether these were independent structures or integral parts of the defensive line. Standing at an estimated height of 8 to 12 meters, the wall was an impressive feat of engineering for its time.

The Kelasuri Wall began at the Kelasuri River near Sukhumi, where several sizable towers still stand today. From there, it snaked its way along the foothills to Tkvarcheli, and, according to historians, extended as far as the Inguri River. However, east of Tkvarcheli, much of the wall has been lost to time, with only fragments remaining. The mountainous terrain—marked by steep slopes, rocky cliffs, and deep gorges—interrupts the continuity of the fortress line, adding to its mystique.

Independent studies have led scholars to agree that part of the wall was erected in the 6th century by local tribes, ancestors of the Abkhazians, under the command of the Persian Empire. The remaining sections were later reinforced and expanded in the 17th century by Levan Dadiani, who sought to bolster defenses during the Abkhaz-Mingrelian wars. It was under his leadership that rifle loopholes were incorporated into the structure, adapting the fortress line to the evolving art of warfare.

To visit Rukhi Fortress, one must travel from Zugdidi along the E97 highway, which connects Tbilisi, Senaki, and Lezeli. The route leads directly to the village of Rukhi, easily accessible by private vehicle or local minibus (marshrutka). As you approach the village, the fortress becomes visible near the roadside, its stone silhouette standing prominently against the landscape—an unmistakable landmark for travelers.