Toba Lake (Tobavarchkhili)

Hidden high in the rugged mountains of Samegrelo, Georgia, lies a place of untouched beauty, far from the beaten tourist path — Lake Tobavarchkhili. Known as the “Silver Lake” in the Megrelian language, this alpine wonder is a secret whispered only among locals and intrepid adventurers. Perched at an altitude of 2,634 meters, Tobavarchkhili remains a secluded gem, where the journey is as breathtaking as the destination itself.

The lake’s waters spill gracefully into the scenic Magana River valley, forming a picturesque waterfall that looks as though it has been painted onto the canvas of the Caucasus Mountains. Locals affectionately shorten the name to “Toba,” but the allure of its shimmering surface needs no abbreviation.

While Tobavarchkhili is the star of the show, the name often refers collectively to a group of lakes nestled in the same pristine corner of Samegrelo National Park. Among them, Lake Okhoje and several smaller volcanic lakes complete this hidden highland sanctuary. The Caucasus, being a relatively young mountain range, has blessed the region with such dramatic and primeval landscapes.

For those who make the trek, the surroundings evoke images of Switzerland’s alpine pastures or New Zealand’s wild fjords. On clear days, the mirror-like surface of the lake reflects the deep blue of the sky, creating an almost surreal palette of rich, saturated colors. Local legend adds a touch of magic: they say a bullet fired from one shore will never reach the opposite side, and that a swim in the lake — followed by tossing in a coin — is certain to summon rain.

Visiting Tobavarchkhili is a rare opportunity, possible only during a brief window from mid-July to late August. Before then, the highlands are still wrapped in snow, and from September onward, dense mists roll in, soon giving way to autumn rains and early snowfalls by October. Yet for those undeterred by September showers, the Georgian wilderness offers sweet rewards — ripening persimmons, pomegranates, and mandarins paint the landscape in vivid autumn hues.

Even among Megrelians, few have ventured to this remote area. Unlike the well-trodden paths of Svaneti, Tobavarchkhili’s trails remain wild, challenging, and blissfully uncrowded. Encounters with Megrelian shepherds are far more common than with fellow trekkers.

The hike itself is not for the faint-hearted. For a group of average fitness, the journey requires about a week, weaving through diverse natural zones and visiting several of the park’s untouched landmarks.

The ascent to Tobavarchkhili is a journey through Georgia’s rich ecological tapestry:

• Broadleaf Forests (up to 1,200 m): Ancient oak, beech, chestnut, and hornbeam trees define this lush, lowland zone.

• Coniferous Forests (up to 2,100 m): Towering pines and firs replace the deciduous canopy as the trail climbs.

• Alpine and Subalpine Meadows (above 2,100 m): Mossy groves and open pastures merge with rocky ridges and snow patches, offering ever-changing vistas.

Each step reveals a new facet of Georgia’s wild beauty — from emerald valleys to sun-drenched passes and misty subtropical thickets. The highest point of the trek reaches an impressive 2,900 meters. With no porters or cable cars, hikers carry their own gear — tents, sleeping bags, and provisions — making physical readiness essential.

The journey to Tobavarchkhili is studded with natural treasures that rival the lake itself:

• Lake Okhoje: Often called the park’s most beautiful lake, Okhoje stuns visitors with its piercing blue waters, cradled by jagged cliffs. Many trekking groups choose to camp here, enchanted by its serene beauty.

• Lake Koliashi: Tucked beyond the Toba East Pass, this small heart-shaped lake is a popular spot for short excursions during the Tobavarchkhili trek. On clear days, the mighty peak of Mount Elbrus, the “King of the Caucasus,” can be seen towering 60 km away.

• Magana Waterfall: Cascading into a lush alpine valley, this majestic waterfall creates a scene straight out of a pastoral dream. Cows graze peacefully on vibrant meadows, fluffy clouds drift lazily overhead, and local shepherds sell homemade cheese to passersby.

The adventure begins in the village of Mukhuri, which is accessible by minibus from Georgia’s major cities — Tbilisi, Kutaisi, and Batumi. For those focusing solely on this trek, flying into Kutaisi is the most convenient option due to its proximity. Tbilisi, being the farthest, requires a six-hour journey by road to reach Mukhuri.

From there, the first leg of the route involves an off-road journey in heavy-duty trucks, taking about 4–5 hours to reach Gvamarda at an elevation of 1,500 meters. The trek itself typically kicks off with the ascent to Lake Okhoje, followed by the final push to Tobavarchkhili by the third day. The return journey often loops through the scenic Magana waterfall and down the Dzhrola River valley, concluding in the village of Skuri.

There are no roads leading to Tobavarchkhili itself. While local shepherds navigate these trails on horseback, for inexperienced riders, such a path would be treacherous. Occasionally, to lighten the load, some groups opt to send part of their gear by horse.

Given the trail’s difficulty and the lack of marked routes, joining an organized trekking group is highly recommended. Experienced guides not only ensure safety but also enrich the journey with local stories and hidden paths. For mountaineers, specialized tours are available to conquer nearby peaks soaring up to 3,000 meters.