History of Astana

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History of Astana

river crossing Astana

The name «Astana» translates simply as «capital,» a name that is both straightforward and symbolic in its Asian simplicity. Situated in the heart of the vast Eurasian steppe, this location is fitting for the capital of the world’s largest steppe country. Yet, it was only less than 30 years ago that this city became Astana and assumed the role of Kazakhstan’s capital.

Astana’s early history dates back to 1830, when it was known as Akmolinsk, a Cossack fortress. Like many settlements in Northern Kazakhstan, its origins are closely tied to Western Siberia. In 1861, the settlement gained city status, along with neighboring cities like Pavlodar and Kokshetau. The need for Russian administrative organization in the newly annexed Kazakh regions prompted the establishment of district centers like Akmolinsk, which first served as the regional hub for the Siberian Kyrgyz Province based in Omsk. By 1868, the area was renamed Akmolinsk Province, although Omsk remained its administrative center, as there were no significant cities nearby.

In 1938, the city’s grim-sounding name, Akmola, meaning «white grave,» took on a darker meaning. Near Akmolinsk, in the village of Malinovka (now Akmol), the Akmolinsk Camp for Wives of Traitors to the Motherland (ALZHIR) was established. Although officially a part of the Karaganda labor camp, ALZHIR became infamous as a women’s camp, where most of the prisoners were guilty only by association, being family members of political traitors.

The 1950s, particularly the Virgin Lands campaign, brought new life to Akmolinsk, as the city became a key transportation hub in Northern Kazakhstan. By 1960, it was designated the center of the Virgin Lands Territory, a super-region formed from five northern Kazakh provinces with predominantly Russian rural populations. In 1961, it was renamed Tselinograd to reflect this role. Though the Virgin Lands Territory was dissolved in 1965, Tselinograd continued to grow, becoming the second-largest city in Northern Kazakhstan, though it never surpassed coal-rich Karaganda in population or economic influence.

In 1992, to break its association with Soviet-era Virgin Lands development, the city was renamed Akmola. This somber name remained until Akmola was chosen as Kazakhstan’s new capital, marking a turning point in its history. Few cities in the post-Soviet space have undergone as many name changes as this one.

Historically, Kazakhstan’s capitals had always been managed from the periphery—first from the north (Omsk), then the northwest (Orenburg), and later the southeast (Almaty). This was largely due to the lack of significant cities in the heart of the Great Steppe, and because the previous capitals had been largely Russian cities, making governance over the Kazakh population easier in earlier times.

In 1997, seeking to break this historical trend of peripheral capitals and establish a more central and indigenous seat of power, President Nazarbayev ordered the capital to be moved to Akmola. The city’s central location and its already established transportation hub made it an ideal choice. Thus, Akmola became Astana, ushering in a new era for the city.

The old Soviet Tselinograd, located on the right bank of the Ishim River, has since been joined by the new Kazakh Astana on the left bank. The city has nearly tripled in size and now boasts a population of over one million people.

Though Astana has grown rapidly, it still trails Almaty, the former capital, which remains twice as large and more urbanized. Almaty has a more established metropolitan atmosphere with a well-developed urban lifestyle.

Astana’s population growth is driven largely by migration. Over a third of the city’s residents were born elsewhere, with many Kazakhs moving in from across the country. As a result, the city’s ethnic makeup has changed significantly. In 1989, Russians formed the majority, but now Kazakhs make up 75% of the population. Interestingly, Almaty, in the south, is a more Russian-populated city than Astana in the north.

Astana now stands as the most Kazakh and Asian city in Northern Kazakhstan, not just in terms of its modern construction but also in the older, Tselinograd-era parts of the city. However, like the rest of the north, Astana is bilingual. Russian remains the dominant language in everyday life, and it’s rare to encounter someone who doesn’t speak it, unlike in southern Kazakhstan.

Today’s Astana sprawls across nearly 500 square kilometers, straddling both banks of the Siberian Ishim River. The city sits in the Kazakh Uplands (Saryarka), although the hills in this area are small and barely noticeable.

The older parts of Astana, known as the «Old City,» are located on the right bank of the Ishim. These areas, built during the late Soviet period, are characterized by Khrushchev-era apartment blocks, a few Stalinist buildings, and a handful of pre-revolutionary structures. The city’s train and bus stations are also found here.

Although the Old City has seen some new construction since Astana became the capital, it pales in comparison to the transformation taking place across the river in the New City, where most of the city’s modern growth and development has occurred.

Kazakhstan's natural and man-made wonders

Here are a few of the country’s most remarkable natural and man-made wonders:

  1. Lake Balkhash – The second largest non-drying saline lake in the world (after the Caspian Sea) and the 13th largest globally, covering an area of 18,428 square kilometers. The uniqueness of this lake lies in its division by a strait only 3 kilometers wide, resulting in two distinct sections: the shallow western part, fed by the Ili River and filled with fresh water, and the deeper eastern part, which is highly saline (with salinity levels ranging from 3.5 to 6 g/l). Balkhash, crescent-shaped, is one of the world’s warmest lakes, with its waters exhibiting a striking milky-white hue.

  2. Charyn Canyon – Located 200 kilometers east of Almaty, this 154-kilometer-long canyon stretches along the Charyn River. Often compared to the Grand Canyon in the U.S., the Charyn Canyon’s «Valley of Castles» is particularly unique. Formed from sedimentary rock that is over 12 million years old, its towering cliffs rise to heights of 150-300 meters.

  3. The Baikonur Cosmodrome – A one-of-a-kind complex of technical structures, covering an area of 6,717 square kilometers. The flight paths from Baikonur extend across thousands of kilometers, passing over Russia and neighboring countries. Baikonur was the launch site of the world’s first artificial Earth satellite, as well as the first artificial satellites of the Sun, Moon, and Venus. It was also from here that the first human ventured into space.

  4. Astana’s Unique Architecture – The new capital of Kazakhstan, located on the left bank of the Ishim River, boasts buildings unlike any other, with no two structures alike.

  5. The Karagiye Depression – One of the world’s lowest points on land, situated in Western Kazakhstan (Aktobe, Atyrau, and Mangistau regions). At 132 meters below sea level, it ranks as the fifth deepest depression on Earth, following the Dead Sea Depression, the Afar Depression, Lake Assal in Djibouti, the Turpan Depression in China, and the Qattara Depression in Egypt.

  6. Borovoe – Also known as Burabay, this mountain resort boasts crystal-clear waters, with visibility down to a depth of 7 meters.

  7. The Chimney of Ekibastuz GRES-2 – Recognized as the tallest in the world, this smokestack, standing at 420 meters, discharges emissions from the Ekibastuz power plant into the atmosphere and holds a place in the Guinness World Records.

  8. Medeo – The highest-altitude skating rink in the world, located at 1,691.2 meters above sea level in Almaty.

  9. Kok-Tobe – A hill in Almaty home to the world’s highest TV tower (from sea level), which is also one of the most earthquake-resistant structures globally.

  10. Kazakhstan’s Stability – The country is renowned for its political stability and harmonious interethnic relations, making it a welcoming and peaceful destination for visitors.