The Shakpak-Ata Underground Mosque, the oldest monument in Western Kazakhstan, lies within the Mangystau region, about 45 kilometers northwest of the village of Tau-Chik, nestled in the Shilikkuduk Gorge. This mosque, carved directly from rock where two ravines cut through the slope of Mount Ungazy toward the Sarytas Bay, captivates on both architectural and historical grounds. Architecturally, it stands as a marvel—hewn from a solid rock formation—while historically, it is attributed to the revered figure Shakpak-Ata, around whom numerous legends have gathered, creating a sacred aura that has drawn visitors in reverence for centuries. Every corner of the mosque has been carefully studied and documented, yet Shakpak-Ata himself remains enigmatic. Details of his real name or life remain unknown, shrouding him in mystery.
Over millennia, people have been laid to rest within the mosque—Turkmens, Adais from the Caspian shores, and other ancient tribes. At one time, this sanctuary also hosted a religious school (madrasah), where students studied during the day and rested at night. However, during a time of conflict, enemies ambushed the mosque, taking the lives of the students during prayer. Their remains now rest within the sacred space. A staircase, which once contained numerous human remains later reinterred near the mosque, leads visitors into this hallowed ground.
Upon entering, the cross-shaped layout of the interior—a rarity in Islamic architecture—immediately stands out, supporting the theory that local tribes inhabited these rock formations long before the arrival of the Sufis around the 9th century. Historians suggest the mosque’s site was once a simple cave, occupied by early humans dating back to the Paleolithic era. Caves in this region often had water sources, making them ideal for settlement. Likely, the first inhabitants expanded these natural recesses and adorned their walls with primitive art. As Islam spread, these caves became spiritual homes for Sufis—a unique order both religious and militant. In these caves, young Sufis reportedly prayed, meditated, and even trained in military arts.
For centuries, Sufis maintained the mosque, leaving their mark on every inch of the structure. The walls retain traces of polychrome paintings and symbols from various tribes, including depictions of horses, riders, bulls, hands, and intricate floral designs. Among these engravings is a verse poetically meditating on the ephemeral nature of life. Another set of inscriptions, such as «Bashim Berdimukhammed Usta Tarkhan» and «Bantam Muhammad Bahi-Hafiz,» resemble family seals frequently found on Mangystau’s tombstones. One prominent symbol, an open palm, reflects a Sufi amulet protecting this sacred site from malevolent forces—a design akin to the hand of Fatima, daughter of the Prophet Muhammad, which is still present in the state emblem of Algeria.
Four massive decorative columns grace the central hall, stretching toward a spherical dome with a circular opening at its center, flooding the hall with light as it illuminates those in prayer. A spiral staircase ascends to the top of the rock, where more graves are located, including those of infants. Near these graves lies a traditional Kazakh game board, toguz kumalak, carved into the stone. From this vantage point, visitors can take in views of the ancient necropolis, which is divided into Turkmen and Kazakh sections.
According to some, Shakpak-Ata’s true name was Shahmardan, a name meaning «king of serpents» or «lord of the underworld,» a meaningful moniker as serpent worship remains prevalent in Mangystau. For example, if one dreams of snakes while staying in the Beket-Ata mosque, it is believed that Beket-Ata’s spirit has appeared in serpent form. In one tale, Shakpak-Ata was so named because, in battle, sparks would fly from his weapon like flint striking stone—a phenomenon translated as shakpak tas in Kazakh. Another legend attributes the name to nearby flint deposits that inspired the title.
Visitor Information
Entrance to the mosque is free, and it remains open daily from 9:00 AM until sunset. Silence is requested inside, especially when pilgrims are present. Modest dress is recommended, with visitors advised to avoid short skirts, shorts, tight clothing, or attire with bare shoulders.
Getting There
The nearest settlement, the village of Tau-Chik, is 45 kilometers away. No public transport serves the mosque, so it’s accessible by car or as part of a tour group. From the city of Aktau, travelers can follow the main road until reaching the turn-off after Tau-Chik, or, if approaching from the opposite direction, between the villages of Kiyakty and Tau-Chik. The trip from Aktau takes roughly two hours, covering about 127 kilometers to the mosque.