Old City citadel, Shymkent

In the very center of Shymkent stands a hill, overlooked for years by both authorities and residents alike. Few knew this mound concealed an ancient settlement complete with a citadel, spanning an area comparable in size to Almaty’s famous Republic Square. This ancient citadel was once a prosperous district, yet over time, without preservation efforts, surrounding areas were built up, leaving archaeologists only the hill itself for excavation. Still, this site has yielded invaluable finds, including well-preserved fortress walls, ramparts, a shahristan (town center), and remnants of towers. These findings have revealed that Shymkent is 2,200 years old, making it one of Kazakhstan’s oldest cities.

Archaeologists dug as deep as 14 meters, discovering cultural layers that unearthed ceramics dating to the late 3rd and early 2nd centuries BCE. This region was once home to the Kangyuy tribes, descendants of the Saka people. Over centuries, the Karakhanids, Timurids, and Kokand rulers also left their mark here. Excavations also revealed a unique ossuary and a vast hall used for ritual gatherings. The exact age of Shymkent remains a matter of debate among historians, who consider it possibly older or younger than currently recognized. However, in 2019, UNESCO formally acknowledged Shymkent’s 2,200-year history.

Although excavations began in the mid-20th century, the Old City had since transformed into a marketplace, dotted with unauthorized structures and private homes. It took the dedication of concerned citizens—including archaeologists, historians, journalists, and cultural advocates—to rally for the preservation of this rare historic site. Their efforts have resulted in a partial restoration of the Old City’s historical and cultural identity. Today, this area serves as an open-air museum, where traditional mud-brick houses, home to generations of Shymkent families, still stand. Presently, Old Shymkent includes the 19th-century Koshar Ata Mosque and the House of the District Chief. A recent addition is the ShymQala Historical and Cultural Complex, also known as Ethno-Aul, where restoration is ongoing. Streets have been rebuilt to their ancient layout, towers have been re-erected, and some buildings have been restored to their historic forms.

In 1864, during the Russo-Kokand War, Russia sent two detachments to conquer the Kokand Khanate. One advanced from Orenburg in the northwest, while the other approached from Verny (now Almaty) in the east. The Orenburg detachment captured Turkestan, having previously seized Ak-Mechet (now Kyzylorda), while Colonel Cherniaev led the Verny detachment to capture Aulie-Ata. The two forces ultimately converged at Chimkent Fortress, where they succeeded in taking the citadel under Cherniaev’s command.

The citadel captured by Cherniaev now sits at the heart of modern-day Shymkent. Visitors to the site today will find remnants of the original hill, complete with a cannon above it. Inside the citadel, excavations are ongoing, with the promise of a future “Shymkent Kremlin” complex.

While the rebuilt citadel attracts interest, it is the old St. Nicholas Cathedral that truly captures the spirit of Shymkent’s past. Built in 1914, the church was closed after the revolution but survived the Soviet era, eventually repurposed as the regional puppet theater.

To the side of Shymkent’s citadel lies an old Uzbek district, which today is a collection of small shops, auto repair businesses, and makeshift dwellings.

Within this area stands Shymkent’s only surviving historic mosque, the Koshar Ata Mosque, named after a small river nearby. Although surrounded by modern buildings, the mosque preserves its old Uzbek wooden architecture—a style also seen in Bukhara and Tashkent.