Discovering the Best Tandoor Samsa in Osh

When it comes to the most delectable ashlyamfu (spicy Dungan noodles with vegetable sauce), the town of Karakol takes the crown. However, if you’re in search of the finest tandoor samsa, look no further than Osh. Other cities in Kyrgyzstan may attempt to replicate the Osh-style samsa, but they often fall short. While you can find these savory pastries being prepared in the alleyways of nearly every Uzbek neighborhood, the best versions are exclusively found in just a couple of locations in the sun-kissed city of Osh.

One such samsakhanа is nestled in a neighborhood along Kurmandjan Datka Street. People from all over the city flock to this somewhat remote spot to indulge in what many consider the best samsa.

The ambiance here is refreshingly simple: two tiled tandoors sit about ten meters away from outdoor and indoor seating, with another tandoor further back for baking lepyoshka (traditional flatbread).

The enormous samsa, generously stuffed with meat, is incredibly affordable, priced at around $1. This hearty tandoor samsa is so filling that even grown men typically limit themselves to just two pieces.

Samsa is only prepared during specific hours, from 11:00 AM to 2:00 PM. The tandoor or “hanging” samsa is distinctly different from those baked in an oven. The dough is made from just flour, water, and salt, while the filling consists of large chunks of meat (beef or lamb), onions, and lamb fat. The secret to the melt-in-your-mouth meat and juice-soaked dough lies in a special marinade of spices. Each batch takes about 45 minutes to cook.

Osh also boasts its own tradition regarding how to properly enjoy this dish. When served, the samsa is placed on the plate with the crust side (the part that adheres to the tandoor) facing up to prevent the juices from spilling out.

Accompanying the samsa are tea, lepyoshka, and thinly sliced onions drizzled with vinegar. You’ll also find teaspoons, but not for sugar, and a knife. The knife is used to cut off the crust (the bottom of the samsa), which you can either eat (this part is slightly tougher) or set aside.

What you are left with is a deep, doughy bowl filled with a delicious filling. Using a spoon, you can savor the meat, while pieces of lepyoshka come in handy for dipping into the savory juices. Once the filling is gone, you’re left with soft, juice-soaked dough, which you can enjoy with the onions and wash down with hot tea.

Before your samsa is pulled from the tandoor, you will be asked, “bitter” or “sweet”? For those visiting a samsakana for the first time, this question may cause some confusion. Don’t worry; “sweet” doesn’t mean sugar is added. It simply indicates that there is no half of a red hot pepper pod inside, as there is in the “bitter” version. Interestingly, the pepper-laden samsa is “marked” on top with sesame seeds.

Enjoy your meal!