Uzgen

Uzgen, a significant city by Kyrgyz standards with a population of about 50,000, is situated in the Osh region and is home to a predominantly Uzbek population (comprising about 90%). The earliest written references to Uzgen date back to the 2nd and 1st centuries BCE, making it the oldest city in Kyrgyzstan.

Several centuries before the Common Era, merchants and travelers journeying from the Fergana Valley to Kashgar chose this area to rest with their caravans. This settlement, nestled by the Yassy and Karadarya rivers, was known as Uzgen and has evolved into what we now recognize as the administrative center of the Uzgen district in the Osh region. For over a thousand years, the city remained a vital waypoint for traders, explorers, and, occasionally, less reputable wanderers.

In the 11th century, the Karakhanid dynasty, one of the most powerful in the medieval East, set its sights on Uzgen. The city was chosen to become one of the Karakhanid capitals, transforming into a flourishing hub of trade and craftsmanship. New cities began to spring up in the surrounding areas, such as Balasagun, renowned today for its historical and architectural remnants, including the Burana Tower.

The Karakhanid dynasty was governed by two ruling lineages: the Chigil tribe (Arslan Khan, the Lion King) and the Yagma tribe (Bogra Khan, the Camel King), resulting in at least two capitals at any given time. Kashgar consistently served as the «Camel» capital, while Balasagun was the «Lion» capital. Unfortunately, Balasagun faced significant adversity when the Karakhanid city was overtaken by the Kara Khitans in 1130. Eventually, in 1141, Uzgen became the «Lion» capital, serving as the primary city of the Fergana Valley. This status, however, was short-lived as nomadic Naimans overthrew the dynasty in 1212, and not long after, Genghis Khan’s forces obliterated the Karakhanid cities. Much later, Uzgen became part of the Russian Empire and was classified as a provincial town within the Andijan region.

Today, remnants of Uzgen’s former glory are scarce, yet what has survived includes a 12th-century minaret and three mausoleums from the 11th and 12th centuries. These historic structures form a unified architectural complex, remarkably well-preserved considering their age. Given the limited number of ancient architectural monuments across Kyrgyzstan, primarily due to the nomadic lifestyle of the Kyrgyz people, Uzgen stands out as an exceptionally unique destination.

The mausoleums of the Karakhanids, representing ancient burial sites, consist of three mausoleums facing southwest, forming a single square. The Karadarya River flows to the south, while the southwest transitions into an ancient necropolis. The oldest of these three mausoleums is the central one, constructed between the 10th and 11th centuries, originally crowned with a dome. The northern mausoleum was built in 1152, and the southern one followed a few decades later. The central and southern mausoleums are connected; the central one is notable for being one of the few in Central Asia with two portals—one facing the city’s entrance and the other opening toward the Karadarya Valley.

Speculation about the individuals interred in these mausoleums varies. Local residents believe that the northern mausoleum holds the remains of Sultan Sanjar-Mazi, a descendant of Genghis Khan, while the central mausoleum is said to be his mother’s resting place. Another legend claims that one of the nation’s legendary heroes, Klych-Burkhan-Khan, and his parents are buried here. This Uzbek hero is celebrated in many tales for his heroic deeds and for saving his people from a ferocious dragon.

However, historical and scientific research tells a different story. Experts have deciphered ancient inscriptions on the tomb walls, revealing that the northern mausoleum houses a representative of the ruling Karakhanid family, while another member of the dynasty was later buried in the southern mausoleum.

The Uzgen Minaret, built in the 11th century during the Karakhanid dynasty, stands as a crucial part of this historic, cultural, and architectural complex, alongside the three mausoleums.

Modern Uzgen is divided into two sections: Verkhny (Upper) Uzgen, which houses businesses, shops, and bazaars, and Nizhny (Lower) Uzgen, primarily a residential area.

There are 28 mosques and prayer houses in Uzgen, with at least two predating the Soviet era—one built in 1893 and the other in 1914, located in the Upper and Lower parts of the city, respectively.

However, Uzgen’s true fame across Central Asia lies not just in its architectural heritage but in its reputation for producing the finest rice for plov (pilaf). Commonly referred to as «Uzgen rice,» this variety is actually the dev-zira type. Although dev-zira rice grows throughout the Fergana Valley, it’s only in Uzgen where the unique soil composition, climate, terrain, and centuries-old cultivation techniques create an exceptional result. The rice is planted, harvested, and processed manually, following traditional methods passed down through generations. After harvesting, the rice isn’t rushed to market; instead, it ferments and matures, much like fine wine or Chinese tea, for a minimum of one year. The most prized Uzgen rice is aged for three years, and the resulting product is considered elite, the perfect choice for preparing celebratory plov. Uzgen plov is distinct from any other Central Asian variety, and if you have the opportunity, it’s an experience not to be missed.

The journey from Osh, the nearest major city, to Uzgen takes about an hour by car, covering a distance of 56 kilometers. You can also explore the sights of Uzgen as part of an organized tour.