Hulbuk Fortress, situated along the route from Dushanbe to Kulob (Kulyab) in Tajikistan, is a historic citadel located in the Vose District of the Khatlon Region. This medieval stronghold once served as the western gateway to the Pamir Highway, a vital route in the region.
Archaeological excavations at a site near Kurgan Tube, known as Khisht-Tepa («the Brick Hill»), began in 1952. It was believed to be the site of a long-lost medieval capital. The area, spanning approximately 70 hectares, was littered with pottery fragments, pieces of glass, ceramic and metal slag, and remnants of burnt bricks—materials that, according to historians, were used in the construction of Hulbuk’s structures.
Further digs confirmed that the palace of a local ruler once stood atop this hill, in the heart of Hulbuk. The remains of the citadel, which was part of the palace complex, showed that it was built on a level platform with walls constructed from mud bricks and faced with burnt bricks. The palace featured large rectangular rooms and long, wide corridors, with parquet-like floors made of burnt bricks. Richly adorned, the walls and ceilings of the palace were decorated with murals depicting warriors, musicians, and musical instruments. Additionally, intricate alabaster carvings featuring vegetal and geometric motifs, Arabic inscriptions, as well as images of fish and mythical creatures, adorned the interiors.
The excavation also revealed that the 11th-century palace was built over the ruins of an older structure. The ancient city of Hulbuk was found to have had advanced infrastructure, including sewer systems, water supply, and heating systems with brick ducts and ceramic pipes. The rooms were heated by large jugs, known as khums, which were embedded in the floor and filled with hot charcoal to gradually warm the space. Among the most significant finds in Khuttal were the Hulbuk ivory chess pieces—20 intact and 8 partially destroyed.
Hulbuk was a prominent settlement between the 9th and 12th centuries, strategically located on a southern branch of the Great Silk Road. It served as the capital of Hatlan during the 9th and 10th centuries, housing various skilled artisans, including potters, glass-blowers, masons, jewelers, and blacksmiths.
The Khulbuk (Hulbuk) palace complex, the residence of the rulers of Khuttal, spanned a 600 by 200-meter area and stood 15 meters high. It was divided into three sections: a large central courtyard with an entrance on the west, and two areas separated by the courtyard. The southern part of the palace was used for official purposes, while the northern section was residential. The entrance featured a traditional portal-peshtak adorned with carved terracotta. The fortress was surrounded by walls made of pakhsy and faced with baked bricks, reinforced by conical or rectangular turrets, with round towers at the corners.
The palace’s interior was richly decorated with unique carvings made from a mix of gypsum and clay, as well as detailed paintings. The archaeological excavations of these royal palaces unearthed a wealth of artifacts that highlight the flourishing artistic craftsmanship of the Hatlan region. The palace also had an extensive plumbing system and heating pipes. Hundreds of pieces of carved plaster were found, showcasing a variety of techniques used by the architects of this culture. These carvings were categorized into three themes: plant motifs, animal figures, and inscriptions.
Although the palace was largely destroyed by the Mongols, ongoing excavations since 1951 have led to a significant reconstruction of the palace walls, complete with a minaret and battlements.
During the 9th to 11th centuries, Hulbuk Palace was at the heart of one of Central Asia’s four largest cities and served as the seat of the Shah of Khatlon. The palace played a crucial role in guarding a large salt hill, a valuable resource at the time, alongside gold and horses, which were traded along the Silk Road.
The citadel, which measured 600 by 200 meters and stood 15 meters high, underwent several reconstructions between the 9th and 12th centuries. Originally, the palace had a three-part composition. Residences were situated around the palace, with entrances and exits leading to a courtyard paved with burnt bricks. The walls of the residences were decorated with carved ganch (a decorative material made from alabaster), combining geometric and vegetal designs. Wall paintings depicting a warrior and two musicians playing traditional instruments—a rubab and an arched harp—were also discovered.
Following a fire, the palace’s layout was altered, with two long corridors forming a cross, and lodgings situated within the resulting quadrants. The palace’s outer walls featured a complex construction, with round towers at the corners and rectangular pylons at intervals. The defensive wall was 12 meters high, with the central entrance and façade located in the middle of the west wall.
The entrance portal was an architectural marvel, measuring 13.25 meters in height and 8.6 meters in width, with a 2.85-meter-wide entrance. The portal’s frame was U-shaped and consisted of several rows, with a figured brickwork pattern forming a wavy design. The second row was made from non-standard bricks inscribed with two suras from the Quran before firing. The archivolt was supported by three-fourth columns, and the tympanum was decorated with brickwork in a geometric design. A constructive element of the ceiling, known as the lopatka, was built from bricks inscribed with Quranic verses. The portal, divided by rectangular and round pylons, presented a monumental appearance.
Khulbuk’s murals reflect the traditions of the Early Middle Ages, demonstrating a continuation and transformation of earlier artistic styles. The palace is unique due to its complex engineering systems, including a heating system and a rainwater drainage system. Khulbuk served as the administrative, trade, and cultural center of the Huttal region during the 9th to 12th centuries.
The fortress was surrounded by walls built from pakhsy and faced with baked bricks, with a two-storied plinth along the base and conical or rectangular turrets for reinforcement. Round towers were positioned at the corners of the complex, and the palace’s outer walls featured a similar construction, with round towers at the corners and rectangular pylons at intervals. The defensive wall was 12 meters high. The entrance structure was a traditional portal-peshtak adorned with carved terracotta, measuring 13.25 meters in height and 8.6 meters in width, with a 2.85-meter-wide entrance and a U-shaped frame made of several rows.