In every neighborhood of Dushanbe, almost in front of every residential building, there stands a tandoor, actively utilized by local residents. The popularity of tandoors in the capital surged after the civil war (1992-1997), a time when the republic was plunged into economic and energy collapse. For many people living below the poverty line, buying bread or baking it in electric ovens became unaffordable, leading to the emergence of tandoors in every residential area.
Local authorities periodically attempted to combat this trend by prohibiting the construction of new ovens in courtyards and demolishing existing ones. However, as the energy crisis deepened and electricity supply became erratic even in the capital, authorities ceased to dismantle tandoors but instead mandated that they be built away from homes, designating specific zones for their placement. In some areas, this directive is followed, while in others, it is ignored. Nevertheless, tandoors continue to exist in the capital, sparking ongoing debates.
Opponents of tandoors argue that they mar the aesthetic of the city and harm the environment due to the smoke they produce. In contrast, defenders of tradition assert that for Tajiks, the tandoor represents more than just an ancient cultural artifact. Both sides, however, agree on one point: bread baked in a tandoor is far tastier than that baked in an oven. Thus, there is no real search for a substitute for the traditional oven.
The tandoor, also known as tandyr, tanur, degdon, or chagdon, is a spherical or oval-shaped clay oven used for baking bread and cooking various dishes. Some scholars believe it originated in Asian countries over five thousand years ago. References to the “tunur” can be found in the “Avesta,” the ancient Iranian text of Zoroastrianism. While some researchers do not regard the tandoor as an indigenous Iranian oven, attributing its origins to the Akkadians (an eastern branch of Semitic peoples), Tajik archaeologist Yusufsho Yakubov argues in his work “Early Medieval Domestic Ovens from the Gardani Hisor Settlement” that this invention belongs to the Tajiks. The Institute of History, Archaeology, and Ethnography of the Academy of Sciences of Tajikistan supports Yakubov’s view while noting that there is no definitive answer to where the tandoor first appeared.
As explained by one ethnographer, the tandoor initially served merely as a cooking hearth. People would dig a pit and cook their food in it. Eventually, they realized that stone retained heat better, leading to the creation of stone hearths, which over time evolved into clay ovens. This refinement process culminated in the tandoors of various shapes and types, which not only cooked food but also baked bread.
Today, tandoors are used in Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, India, the Caucasus, China, Mongolia, Korea, Japan, and Russia. In each region of Tajikistan, the tandoor is known by different names. In the north of the country, it is called “tanur,” while in the south, it may be referred to as “chagdon,” “degdon,” or “dedon.” Tandoors can be built into walls, placed on the ground, or even dug into the earth.
The term “degdon” or “dedon” translates to “a place for a cauldron,” indicating that these ovens can be used not only for baking bread but also for cooking. Such ovens have openings both at the top and front. When baking bread, the front opening is closed, while the cauldron is placed on top for cooking, allowing fire to be tended through the front opening.
Chagdons are tandoors built into the ground, typically 70-80 cm deep. In some regions, similar ovens are found inside homes, built into the floor. These ovens also serve as a source of warmth; during the cold season, residents can warm their feet in them while covering themselves with blankets.
The kitsor is a Pamiri variant of the tandoor, also installed within the home. A special area is designated in the center of the house, elevated for this purpose. The kitsor is used for both baking bread and cooking, while in winter, it heats the entire home.
Although the tandoor may appear simple, its construction demands significant skill—especially when it comes to traditional clay tandoors. Today, cement tandoors are also sold in Tajikistan’s markets. These cement versions are more durable (they don’t break during transportation) and easier to produce. However, bakers and cooks still prefer clay tandoors, which are much scarcer on the market. Typically, these traditional tandoors are either custom-ordered or selected from pre-made options at a craftsman’s workshop. One such craftsman is Ibodullo Safarov, a resident of the village of Chortepa in the Hisor district, located just 25 km from Dushanbe.
We usually start our work in May and continue until September. By May, the soil and clay are fully warmed up. You cannot work with cold clay; it can severely harm your health. Our work is already tough and has taken a toll on my health. This year, it’s already June, and we’ve just begun our work. The rains have held us back,” explains Usto Ibodullo.
When we first asked him about the differences between cement and clay tandoors, the master responded that while bread baked in cement tandoors may look appealing, it lacks the flavor of bread baked in traditional ovens.
“Cement dries out the dough, absorbing moisture from it. So, no matter how beautiful the bread or sambusa might look from a cement tandoor, they will taste dry. Try baking the same dough in both types of tandoors, and you will see the difference for yourself. Bread from a clay tandoor is tastier and stays soft longer, while sambusa will be juicier,” he asserts.
Ibodullo Safarov has been crafting tandoors for over 30 years, having learned the trade in his youth. His skills did not come from family tradition; he apprenticed under a Kyrgyz master who traveled from Osh to serve clients in Tajikistan. Over time, Safarov became the most renowned master in Hisor.
He creates his tandoors using a blend of three types of clay—yellow, blue, and red. The yellow clay is sourced from just behind his house, on a hillside. He purchases red clay near the Hisor Fortress and blue clay from the neighboring ShahriNav district.
“In the past, we would buy a KAMAZ truckload of clay for 1200 somoni (approximately $133). I just called to check the price today—it has gone up. But what can we do? We will have to buy it at the new price,” he says.
According to the master, he can craft a tandoor in one day, but the preparation process can take a long time—sometimes up to two weeks just to prepare the clay. During this period, the clay is soaked, kneaded, and mixed, with his entire family—his wife and four children—joining in the effort. To ensure the clay is fully ready for use, it is mixed repeatedly, with half a ton of the clay mixture being kneaded daily.
“If you don’t knead the clay properly, you won’t be able to build a tandoor, and even if you do, it will not last long and will quickly fall apart. There were times when I had other tasks, and my sons would take over the mixing. They claimed they turned it over and kneaded it several times, but as soon as I touched it, I could tell it wasn’t ready. I had to start over, and re-kneading semi-dried clay (which is the state from which you can begin shaping) is even more challenging. Now they know it’s better to knead it well at the start,” the master shares.
After the clay is prepared, cow hair and crushed straw are added. These ingredients are essential for strengthening the clay and preventing it from cracking. The cleaning of cow hair is a time-consuming process; it needs to be sorted, washed free of salt and debris, dried, and only then can it be used.
Once all components are mixed, the master rolls out sheets, slightly dries them, and begins forming circles that are stacked and joined together. They must not only be connected but also reinforced and smoothed out. For this, the master uses wooden and metal mallets to create the “belly” of the tandoor. Finally, the neck is attached, and the tandoor is left to dry in the sun.
Before a tandoor can be used, it must burn for a couple of days to cure the clay. During this process, the hair and straw inside the tandoor are also burned away. The temperature of the fire must be gradually increased; otherwise, the clay may crack.
“If you suddenly pour boiling water into a jar, it can break, so you must rinse it with warm water first before adding hot water. The same goes for the tandoor. If you properly cure it at the start, it will last a long time. My tandoors can last up to 15 years or even longer, depending on how they are used. Many people acquire tandoors for restaurants, which tend to have shorter lifespans because they are used daily, often multiple times a day, and frequently sprayed with water—a practice that should be avoided. In contrast, a home-used tandoor will last much longer,” explains Usto Ibodullo.
During a single season, Ibodullo Safarov produces up to 600 tandoors, and they are in high demand—customers come from both neighboring and distant regions, including Dushanbe itself. His tandoors are even used in kitchens that cater to the country’s leadership.
“If the president or his guests are served tandoor bread and dishes, you can be sure they were prepared in my tandoors,” boasts the master.
His claim is corroborated by a man who arrives while we are speaking with Usto Ibodullo. It turns out he owns several national cuisine restaurants. According to him, he has been purchasing tandoors exclusively from Usto Ibodullo for several years. Now, he plans to open a Tajik cuisine restaurant in Samara and has come to Safarov to order tandoors for transport to Russia. The restaurant owner is confident that Usto Ibodullo’s tandoors will withstand the journey without breaking.
As we conclude our conversation, Usto Ibodullo mentions that this year may be his last for crafting tandoors due to declining health and energy. The current tax situation also dampens his enthusiasm for continuing his work.
“To make a proper tandoor, you need to be in good health. Mine is not what it used to be. My back refuses to handle such strenuous work. Just consider: I spend entire days bent over, shaping tandoors, and I do this for months on end. Plus, clay is a cold material, and my body absorbs its chill, which eventually takes a toll,” he reflects.
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