Opposite the fortress gates are the remnants of the ancient city. From right to left, there is the New Madrasa (17th-18th century), the Old Madrasa (16th-17th century) with the foundation of the Ablution House (which was supplied by a ceramic water pipe), the foundation of the Hishtin Caravanserai (17th-18th century), and behind the trees, the domes of the Makhdumi Azam Mausoleum. The largest Gissar Madrasa, Chashma-Mohiyon from the 15th century, has not survived.
Opposite the entrance to the Gissar Fortress stands the Kukhna Madrasah, or Old Madrasah, constructed in the 17th century and still standing today. This institution trained scholars, theologians, and clergy, offering courses in the Quran, Arabic language, Hadiths (sayings of the Prophet), Kalam, Sharia, and Islamic history. By Central Asian standards, the Kukhna Madrasah was quite large, accommodating up to 150 students.
The structure is made of brick, featuring an entrance portal topped with a dome. The building itself is rectangular, and upon entering, visitors are greeted by a spacious courtyard surrounded by student cells, known as khujrs, along the perimeter. During the 16th to 19th centuries, the courtyard housed a small garden and ayvans, which served as resting places for students and teachers. In addition to the khujrs, the madrasah contained classrooms and a mosque, a fundamental feature of any madrasah. The domed mosque and classrooms were situated opposite the main entrance portal. The interior decoration was modest, with notable features including carved wooden doors and traditional carved window grids, known as pajara.
Besides the building itself, a significant library, which now functions somewhat as a museum, has been preserved in the Kukhna Madrasah. The library’s collection primarily focuses on religious topics.
In the Old Madrasa, the only truly authentic part seems to be the facade, while the courtyard is a reconstruction.
Today, the Old Madrasa houses a museum. Although the museum’s collection is modest, a distinctive column with a capital serves as a reminder of the ancient Greek influence that once prevailed here.
The museum primarily showcases ethnographic exhibits, including Gissar suzani, which share many similarities with the embroidery of Uzbek Baysun. Before national borders were drawn, Baysun was essentially a mountainous outskirt of Gissar.
What truly captivates visitors is the museum’s unique layout. Instead of traditional exhibition halls, the displays are set within the cells, or hujras, lining the courtyard.
Nearby, the Nav Madrasah, or New Madrasah, still retains its two-story façade. Built in the 18th to 19th centuries, it was almost entirely destroyed during the civil war.
