Kafir-Kala

The pride of the village of Bogev, situated approximately 30 kilometers from Khorog, is the remarkable historical complex known as Kafir-Kala. This site includes the remains of an ancient fortress and the ruins of two circular temples, with radii of 11 and 9 meters respectively. The name “Kafir-Kala” translates to “Fortress of the Infidels.”

Kafir-Kala is located in the lower reaches of the Gunt River, just above the village of Bogev. Perched on a high rock, the fortress commands a strategic view over the valley. The preserved walls, still standing, are notable for their thickness, measuring 0.3 to 0.4 meters. Inside, the stone walls of the structures are lined with stone benches, and the interiors feature hearths and various obelisks. Historians believe that in ancient times, these places of worship were roofed, with small skylights allowing sunlight to filter through at its zenith. The fortress’s thick walls and towering structures were dedicated to the worship of the Sun God, a common feature in the Saka burial mounds found in the Pamir Mountains.

The fortress was built by the agricultural communities of Western Pamir to protect themselves from the nomadic invaders of Eastern Pamir. The citadel covered an area of 200 by 120 meters and consisted of a square structure flanked by two circular towers. In the eastern part of the fortress wall, a watchtower with arched windows stood guard. At the center of the fortress was a small square room or house, which served as the residence of the local ruler.

Kafir-Kala also had a religious significance, as it was the site of fire temples, remnants of which can still be seen today. These fire temples, located on two small platforms, one elevated and one lower down, were constructed in a circular shape—a distinctive feature that sets them apart from other temples in Shugnan. In the Pamir region, fire temples were traditionally built without roofs until the medieval period, marking a key difference from the more famous Zoroastrian temples. Inside the fortress, archaeologists found three distinct types of pottery: one from the Kushan period, another from the Hephthalite era, and a third from the Middle Ages. This suggests that Kafir-Kala (Bogev) was originally constructed during the Kushan Empire. Adjacent to the fortress, in what is now Shoshindakht, there once stood a caravanserai, indicating that the fortress was positioned along a segment of the Silk Road and played a crucial role in controlling trade routes. The main road from Sarikul in the East to Balkh in the West passed through Shugnan, forming one of the Pamir’s key caravan pathways.

The fortress also served as a signaling and warning system. Located at the entrance to the Suchan Valley and the Gunt Gorge, it was ideally situated to alert neighboring settlements of impending attacks. At night, fires were lit using hay, and during the day, thick smoke signals were sent up to warn the various checkpoints visible from Bogev down into the Gunt Gorge. All the forts and posts in the valley were positioned so that they could signal one another from beginning to end. In this way, neighboring fortresses were able to alert others, allowing the local people to seek refuge in fortified places or other safe locations.

During harvest time, the villagers assigned someone to keep watch from the top of the fortress, while others continued their work in the fields. As Islam spread, these fortresses came to be known as «Kafir-Kala» because the inhabitants took refuge there and resisted the spread of Islam, refusing to convert. Over time, as Islam became more entrenched in the region, these fortresses lost their importance and influence.

A similar fortress complex to Kafir-Kala, built with the same rough stone slabs, similar-sized blocks, and arrow slits, is located near the village of Sijjd. This fortress also features a single watchtower at the southwestern corner, facing the gorge in the Shugnan Ridge. It is believed that both fortresses were built around the same period.

Further fortresses of this type can be found along the main tributary of the Gunt River, the Shakhdara River. Notable examples include the fortresses of Roshtkala and Charykkala, located in the midsection of the Shakhdara. Additionally, several smaller fortress complexes are found in the upper reaches of the Shakhdara, such as the Deruj Fortress near the village of Javshangoz. These fortresses appear to form a chain, guarding the passes from the Shakhdara Valley toward the valleys of the Gunt and Pamir rivers.

The entire network of fortresses, including Kafir-Kala, reflects the significance of this region in ancient times. These fortifications, once crucial for defense and religious worship, now stand as monuments to a rich and layered history, offering insight into the civilizations that once thrived in the challenging terrain of the Pamir Mountains. Today, they continue to captivate the interest of archaeologists, historians, and travelers alike, revealing the mysteries of the past as they stand watch over the valleys they once protected.