Getting documents ready

Traveling through the Pamirs, specifically the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO), requires careful preparation, especially when it comes to documentation. Here’s what you need to consider to ensure a smooth journey.

GBAO Permit

Gorno-Badakhshan is a border zone, and to visit this region, you need to obtain a special permit. This can typically be arranged within a day, but delays may occur due to bureaucracy or public holidays. The permit costs around $10 if you apply directly at the Office of Visas and Registration (OVIR), or about $15 if you go through a tour agency or intermediary.

Throughout your journey in GBAO, this permit will be checked at nearly every checkpoint. If you don’t have it, your trip will likely be cut short at the first checkpoint, or you’ll face hefty fines. Simply put, this document is a must for anyone traveling through the Pamirs.

Registration in Tajikistan

If you enter Tajikistan without a visa, registration is required if you plan to stay for more than 10 working days. Unlike Uzbekistan, where registration is automatically handled by hotels, in Tajikistan, you’ll need to arrange it yourself, either through a local police station or OVIR. The challenge is finding someone willing to formally register you at their address, even if only on paper.

In most cases, you might not be asked for proof of registration during your stay, but it’s wise to be prepared. If necessary, tour agents can assist with the process.

Migration Card

Upon arrival in Tajikistan, you’ll be asked to fill out a migration card. It’s a simple process that takes just a minute, but it’s easy to overlook if you don’t know about it. When leaving the country, officials may ask to see the card, so don’t forget to fill it out upon entry to avoid complications later.

Permit for Crossing the Kyrgyz Border

As of early May 2024, an additional requirement was in place for crossing the border from Tajikistan into Kyrgyzstan. The official border was closed due to a recent conflict between the two countries, but tourists could cross with special permission from the Kyrgyz Ministry of Tourism.

This permission isn’t a physical document you receive. Instead, you needed to email your travel details, including names and dates of border crossing, to tourism.department@tourism.gov.kg. The ministry would then forward the information to the relevant border post. In reality, however, tourists often received replies recommending that they contact Kyrgyz travel agencies, which were offering the service for $15-20.

In summary, the border might be «closed,» but for $20, you can typically find a way through.

Timing Matters

Avoid arriving at the border on weekends or late Friday evenings. The Ministry of Tourism doesn’t operate during these times, and if your name isn’t on the approved list for any reason, you could be stuck at the checkpoint until Monday.